RRC Archives

I agree w/ you Andrew, in general.
My whole reason for asking is for safety. I had a severe injury and now can't hit my feet on anything. So, for safety of my smashed ankles, I have to scope stuff out really well and make sure that I don't fall in the wrong spot (even on a beta burn). I heard the 4th bolt is a little tricky to clip--Sandymalone, did you notice anything about that? How tall are you? I am 5'3 with a negative 2" ape index. I don't mind falling after 4th bolt, but really want to get that clipped before pitching off (preventing slamming into the wall/ground).

climb2core wrote:

Andrew wrote:What has been said here that can't be learned in one beta-burn.


p.s. a beta-burn does not count as a try because the purpose is for beta not sending.

I know this fly's in the face of your non send beta non attempt, but what do you guys think is better... A beta intensive flash or an "almost on-sight" followed by a second go send? (Andrews rules of sending not withstanding for purpose of this discussion)

an "almost on-sight" followed by a second go send is the correct choice because it is still one go, provided that the onsight attempt was not a redpoint attempt.

I didn't know about all of this cheater thinking. I like it!
I always count any climbing on the route an attempt. No wonder it takes me so many "tries" to send stuff.

biting my lip...biting my lip

pigsteak wrote:biting my lip...biting my lip

Lmao

I did beta similar to sandymalone and all clips are easy, safe, and no slamming into wall.

I did beta similar to sandymalone and all clips are easy, safe, and no slamming into wall.

Awesome
Thanks

So...I tried the crux w/ the left pocket, right hand to upper crimp, then blind move to the bowling ball. I did it after a hang, but feels too stretched out to do on redpoint. I am going to try the "short person way" this week--wish me luck! Think I have everything else (clip stances etc) figured out. Thanks for the beta

I think I prefer the left crimpy pocket, heel hook w/ left foot, heel/toe cam for right foot, up to the right crimp, then to the bowling ball hold.

Where is the "deep pocket" out right? The only right hand pocket I saw was really low, same level as the jugs?