Bolting question

[ynp1]

Thanks lurk! Good info.

Heacocis... I agree with you, but I really don't think this is as nontraditional as you think. After more research I found multiple websites that talk about glueing In threaded rod, one beings the ASCA (America Safe Climbing Association). It sounds like it is an accepted practice... And why do it over the other glue ins? It is cheaper, maybe and sounds to be as safe. I think using glue in threaded rod is in no means fucking up a route and causing problems for future climbers. He'll if I wanted to be lazy and just get my FA I would place 1/4 rivets, send, and then let somebody else clean up my mess. But that is not what I am looking for.

I am also interested in what Kip and Rick have to say about this topic.

Thanks again to everybody that is willing to give some info!

[dustonian]

I still don't see how this would be cheaper once you factor in $3+ for the SS hanger, nut, and washer. That alone is about as much as a glue-in and considerably weaker than an unwelded eyebolt, not to mention unnecessarily complex with 4 parts vs 1 for the eye (plus the glue). It does sound like a great solution for rebolting in the same hole though, if you can the old rusty crap out of the hole (good luck).

[clif]

i think kentucky came to play

[Redpoint]

"Glue-in studs

This is a category of fasteners that has the disadvantages of both the mechanical fasteners
and glue-in bolts. Consequently, they are not widely used. Because the hanger bracket
can be loosened, just as though it were attached with a sleeve anchor, the nut can loosen
and spin off, allowing the hanger to fall off. This is system of bolting also includes the
messiness of dealing with epoxy. Because the hanger can come completely off, one might
as well use an sleeve anchor, which allows the threads to loosen a few more turns before
coming completely out of the rock." Rick Webber http://www.muirvalley.com/pdf/BoltingRed17.pdf

As long as you are using SS rod I think it makes sense to do your idea considering how expensive SS bolts are.

Here is more information, look at Threaded Rod: http://www.safeclimbing.org/education/adhesivebolts.htm (edit: I just noticed you already mentioned this site)

[heacocis]

I still don't see how this would be cheaper once you factor in $3+ for the SS hanger, nut, and washer. That alone is about as much as a glue-in and considerably weaker than an unwelded eyebolt, not to mention unnecessarily complex with 4 parts vs 1 for the eye (plus the glue). It does sound like a great solution for rebolting in the same hole though, if you can the old rusty crap out of the hole (good luck).

Glue-ins are a great, if not the best solution for rebolting in the same hole. Assuming you can get the old bolt out, any damage to the hole (i.e. it is no longer smooth and round) will be taken care of by the glue, and in fact you can even bore out the bolt a bit if necessary. But as far as the actual process of putting something new in the hold, I can't see there being any difference between a threaded rod and any other type of glue-in. So, I think we would be back to the original question of the quality difference of a threaded rod and a one-piece glue-in. And my thought on the matter would be to put the use possible gear, even *if* it means paying a bit more.

[the lurkist]

I would use the welded or forged eye bolts if they were close to affordable ( and I haven't priced them recently).
My dream is to rebolt the Lode with these things. I would probably splurge on the best stuff just to do the definitive fix. Does anyone (Dario, Rick) get these at a bulk rate?

[goodguy]

You should check with Isaac at Hoosier Heights, he has some great new glue ins that I am sure he would love to see at the Lode as well.

[pigsteak]

I have seen the new ones Isaac has..they are sweet! If we can get every climber who climbs at the Lode to donate $5, we could do this.

[One-Fall]

I have seen the new ones Isaac has..they are sweet! If we can get every climber who climbs at the Lode to donate $5, we could do this.

lemme know if you collect money for this.

[Clevis Hitch]

see what we need is policy on this. How about a benevolent organization that was founded by the very people who bolt in the Red. Not some national authority but a local one. Lets say one with an account at quik-set in Lexington so that people could directly buy bolts for the charity. That way it keeps someone from handling the money. Lets say this bolting co-operative had a set of standards that was acceptable techiques for bolting. One that had standards for first three bolt placement so as to eliminate ground fall potential by whiffing a clip. Lets say that this Bolters co-op had a mentoring program to where that people could learn to bolt from experienced hands and that if someone wnt through the training program and completed a training apprenticship with some one who already bolts that they would get certified and could check out drills and get free equipment from the co-op. I'm not saying that it would try to keep people from bolting on their own, you can do that no matter what, but you don't wanna go handing out bolts to whoever, You would want them qualified to bolt. The interpretation of their art would be completely up to them...Crazy, I know...