RRC Archives

rsd212 wrote:

Shamis wrote: Obviously I know taping can help

Not so obvious, and depending on your exact meaning, possibly not true. Taping to restrict range of motion can prevent you from getting into full crimp position, but there's no evidence (and some evidence to the contrary) that taping will help support the pulleys and prevent injury. To tape tight enough to support a pulley would mean cutting off circulation.

http://ajs.sagepub.com/content/28/5/674.abstract

I've suspected this might be true, but it would be nice if there was more data on how they taped the fingers. What pattern they used, how thick they put the tape on, and how tight it was.

The hand therapist recommended a different way of taping that isn't the normal way most climbers do it, I'll have to try to get a diagram or something to post about it.

krampus wrote:oh, i though everyone used the open handed crimp position, anything else is just painful

The hold that did me was actually big enough so as not to warrant any real crimping at first, but it was slanted in an odd way and as my fingers started to slip in I think I naturally started to shift into more of a crimp position. it was almost a gaston at that point. There was a bump on the middle of the hold which provided some purchase to secure my fingers from all slipping off, but that meant that most of the weight transferred to 1 finger...

pigsteak wrote:

krampus wrote:

One-Fall wrote:I haven't used the crimp position in about 5 years, and haven't had any pulley problems. Prevention to me means not putting yourself in a high risk situation.

Open hand the crimps is one idea.

shenanagans I say, shenannagans.....You can't tell me you hand jammed up chunnel and table

um doood, he means he hasnt used the classic crimp position..watch him and ray climb..they do this weird open hand crimp thing...it takes some training to get comfy with it, but I am told it is stronger and way less harmful to pulleys

I have waited 17 years to be mentioned in the same sentence as Ray Ellington. I can now retire from climbing happily.

krampus wrote:oh, i though everyone used the open handed crimp position, anything else is just painful

nope, I am too lazy to train the open hand crimp...

I am old skool..and use the closed crimp....and knock on wood, no injuries in the last decade.