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Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 6:55 pm
by dustonian
Does that blog mention jugging random fixed lines of unknown origin in the woods as cardio cross-training?
Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:21 pm
by britnienoble
Great Great Advice!, I've started some walking and a new diet plan. I'm well on my way. I've lost 25 lbs since october and hopefully I will keep it up. Was planning on starting some walking/jogging this morning but we go a good snow last night! So maybe playing outside with the youngen will be a nice substitute. Have a great day everyone!
Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:52 pm
by the lurkist
dustonian wrote:Does that blog mention jugging random fixed lines of unknown origin in the woods as cardio cross-training?
high repetition low resistance route snaking
Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:06 pm
by 512OW
the lurkist wrote: So, I stand by my advice of telling the rank amateur if there is a treadwall available and it is january, get into a three day a week habit of warm up, stretch, then 30-45 minutes broken up in to sets on a treadwall for several months. That person will be able to step outside and have much more success than almost any other conditioning program I can think of.
I have to disagree. I can't imagine that a treadwall will give an absolute amateur an advantage over someone who gets to experience angles changing while climbing, hanging out on holds fiddling with how to best hold them, stand on them, etc, and getting to try and retry over and over a move that has them stumped. I'd venture that an hour a week spent learning new and better technique will far outweigh what a treadwall can teach.
Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:15 pm
by climb2core
512OW wrote:the lurkist wrote: So, I stand by my advice of telling the rank amateur if there is a treadwall available and it is january, get into a three day a week habit of warm up, stretch, then 30-45 minutes broken up in to sets on a treadwall for several months. That person will be able to step outside and have much more success than almost any other conditioning program I can think of.
I have to disagree. I can't imagine that a treadwall will give an absolute amateur an advantage over someone who gets to experience angles changing while climbing, hanging out on holds fiddling with how to best hold them, stand on them, etc, and getting to try and retry over and over a move that has them stumped. I'd venture that an hour a week spent learning new and better technique will far outweigh what a treadwall can teach.
How 'bout this... you are both right. Put some time in on the treadwall to work on endurance... But not at first. Begin by learning movement, technique, enjoying actual the actual feeling and experience of climbing (as best you can in a gym). Then once you understand how to drop knee, heel hook, maintain body tension, etc. add in the treadwall to begin improving endurance.
Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 12:59 am
by 512OW
I could agree with that, though that makes it sound like a treadwall is the only way to gain endurance. I'd put my endurance up against anyone's at my climbing level, and I've never used a treadwall. Climbing for volume in a gym or outdoors will help with both. Not to mention, a large part of endurance is learning to recover mid-route, which you can't do on a treadwall.
Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 2:16 am
by pigsteak
the real answer is that on the treadwall, you have no belayer. outside and roped up inside, your belayer will go thru misery for your selfish training....
Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 2:39 am
by aburgoon
I've been climbing for 12 years and only last month tried out the tread wall. Pretty sweet, but non-essential. Essential to the first couple years of my climbing was climbing with better climbers, and exposing myself to novel situations. Come to think about it, it still is.
Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 3:56 am
by the lurkist
actually a treadwall is perfect for learning to recover mid route. Simply stop the machine on whatever hold you are trying to train recovery on after whatever interval you want to climb before- you can recreate whatever situation you want.
Yeah, I agree it is non essential, but my point is for a neophyte who is trying to get the coarse motor skill down and at the same time get upper ext strength and conditioning and get the other accessory fitness (core stability, etc), and not get hurt by tweaking weak connective tissue in a gym on too steep walls, and it is winter, then a treadwall is one stop shopping. Possibly boring as hell and off putting, but fuck, discipline is part of it.
Re: What is the Best thing for a non-climber?
Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 4:26 am
by 512OW
Do you have a commission deal worked out with a treadwall company, Lurk? Do you find yourself skipping days at the Red in favor of the treadwall?