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Re: January climbing in the gorge

Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 1:39 pm
by cliftongifford
as for shoes, i don't have a clue. true north once rented shoes i think, but i don't know about that now.

Re: January climbing in the gorge

Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 3:29 pm
by jrathfon
zenclimber wrote:Thanks for info.
I'm flying in form San Diego -so worried about the weight flying. I know I want to climb when there, but will be in class during the week so just have a few weekends. But your all right, if I leave the rack I will be bummed on the good days. So you talked me into it, bring the rack. So what areas can I find those sweet south facing cliffs?
are you talking full trad rack? if you want to save on weight, with the available temps, and your time span you'll be plenty happy with ~14 draws and 2 slings, i.e. just spurt climbing. although there are some sunny cracks, they tend to be dank and cold in the winter, and only a few warm enough cracks at each crag. at these kind of temps spurt climbing is typically much more enjoyable. that said, it was 57 last friday, sunny and dry!

as said on another thread, you can head south to the OBED for a few more degrees, plus other places near chatty like foster falls, or even sandrock, both for sport, or t-wall soaks in the sun for trad.

Re: January climbing in the gorge

Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 4:12 pm
by shear
jrathfon wrote:
zenclimber wrote:Thanks for info.
I'm flying in form San Diego -so worried about the weight flying. I know I want to climb when there, but will be in class during the week so just have a few weekends. But your all right, if I leave the rack I will be bummed on the good days. So you talked me into it, bring the rack. So what areas can I find those sweet south facing cliffs?
are you talking full trad rack? if you want to save on weight, with the available temps, and your time span you'll be plenty happy with ~14 draws and 2 slings, i.e. just spurt climbing. although there are some sunny cracks, they tend to be dank and cold in the winter, and only a few warm enough cracks at each crag. at these kind of temps spurt climbing is typically much more enjoyable. that said, it was 57 last friday, sunny and dry!

as said on another thread, you can head south to the OBED for a few more degrees, plus other places near chatty like foster falls, or even sandrock, both for sport, or t-wall soaks in the sun for trad.

T-wall has way better sport than anything at Fosters...don't bother with Sandrock...If it's sunny, Tieranny wall at the Obed is the joint.

Re: January climbing in the gorge

Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 4:30 pm
by jrathfon
but each place can have varying weather ('cept fosters and t-wall), so i was listing options. could be rain/sleet/snow in one place and 10 degrees warmer and sunny at another.

i wouldn't know anything about t-wall sport.... i like cracks (excuse for being weak sauce)

Re: January climbing in the gorge

Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 5:24 pm
by ynp1
I agree! I would not bring a trad rack for that short of a stay and it being winter. The cracks will be super cold. I almost always suggest first time climbers to the Red to just sport climb. You will get a lot more climbing in for the short visit if you don't worry about lugging around a trad rack and searching for a warm crack. Just clip bolts and have a great time.

Foster Falls is super cool and is south facing, but really it would just be another crag at the Red. So it would not be worth driving all that way to sport climb when you have the Red so close.

Re: January climbing in the gorge

Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 5:31 pm
by dustonian
If you do want to climb trad, T-Wall is the place.

Re: January climbing in the gorge

Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 5:59 pm
by Brentucky
Just stating the obvious, but how about you be sure that your buddies who own no gear are actually going to be safe to climb with. I don't want to see any more stupid videos in the making.

Re: January climbing in the gorge

Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 9:06 pm
by Rollo
Since you are coming from San Diego I would just leave all your shit at home. It's been my experience that all that warm blood in the bodies of warm climate folk turns them into pussies in the winter.


Oh... but i agree with shear. you can climb at Tierany Wall without a shirt in 40 degrees if it's sunny. Cheers!

Re: January climbing in the gorge

Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 11:08 pm
by ynp1
GOOD! finally somebody is being a dick to this guy! How did we let it get this far with out trying to shut this person down. We are all getting soft...

Re: January climbing in the gorge

Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 11:49 pm
by TrueNorthRRG
PM me. I have gear available.
It's clean since we used it in the drier stuff. It's a bit damp out now. Too bad you will not be here tomorrow, it's supposed to be grand.
Climb Strong