Climbing Weakness
Moderator: terrizzi
- Clevis Hitch
- Posts: 1461
- Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:10 pm
Re: Climbing Weakness
fear of "going for it"
If you give a man a match, he'll be warm for a minute. If you set him on fire, he'll be warm for the rest of his life!
Re: Climbing Weakness
Mental: Cruxes at the limit of my power mess with my head. I visualize failure instead of success just before i get there.
Physical: I'm always overdoing the training and end up injured as a result.
Grip: I favor my pinky over my index finger which is bizarre but i can't stop.
Footwork: Frog wins over drop knee almost every time.
Stopper move: Big ass cross throughs.
Physical: I'm always overdoing the training and end up injured as a result.
Grip: I favor my pinky over my index finger which is bizarre but i can't stop.
Footwork: Frog wins over drop knee almost every time.
Stopper move: Big ass cross throughs.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!
-Horatio
-Horatio
- michaelarmand
- Posts: 527
- Joined: Fri Mar 23, 2007 1:08 pm
Re: Climbing Weakness
Anything steep.... I get punished in so many ways....
I've been a gumby longer than you've been climbing.
- climb2core
- Posts: 2224
- Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:04 pm
Re: Climbing Weakness
Weakness:
Training
-Need to commit more time to training
-More focused training regimen
-Need to train with more focused individuals
On the Rock
-Not "going for it" on onsight. I tended to spend most of my year climbing climbs at my redpoint limit. I tended to fall into the mindset that routes of this grade were not onsightable. May be true, but it did nothing for my improving my onsight skills.
-Slopers in July. I just don't trust em.
-Endurance: Getting better, but still can't climb hard (for me) above 60 ft without a serious rest.
-Technique when fatigued... going, going, gone, fall.
-Power: will ultimately need to increase for next year. I won't be able to push into the next grade without it.
Training
-Need to commit more time to training
-More focused training regimen
-Need to train with more focused individuals
On the Rock
-Not "going for it" on onsight. I tended to spend most of my year climbing climbs at my redpoint limit. I tended to fall into the mindset that routes of this grade were not onsightable. May be true, but it did nothing for my improving my onsight skills.
-Slopers in July. I just don't trust em.
-Endurance: Getting better, but still can't climb hard (for me) above 60 ft without a serious rest.
-Technique when fatigued... going, going, gone, fall.
-Power: will ultimately need to increase for next year. I won't be able to push into the next grade without it.
-
- Posts: 2240
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm
Re: Climbing Weakness
Not staying up to 11 to train and going to bed so that I can get 7 hours before I work another 12-13 hour day. I just don't want it enough.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Normie
Re: Climbing Weakness
Funny you mention that one, I feel the same way. I'll drop knee like crazy in the gym but then when I get outside it's back to the frontal frog legging.SCIN wrote: Footwork: Frog wins over drop knee almost every time.
all you haters die slow.
- Clevis Hitch
- Posts: 1461
- Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:10 pm
Re: Climbing Weakness
I got a bad case of the "nancy's"
If you give a man a match, he'll be warm for a minute. If you set him on fire, he'll be warm for the rest of his life!
Re: Climbing Weakness
I think I have my weaknesses pretty boiled down to specifics...
Lock offs: I have a big gap in my lock off spots, specifically when a foot is far to the side, and my lock off arm is away from my body. I can usually get around it with minor trickery, but it's worth working.
Power: All around. I'm pretty solid up to V7 or V8, but I'm gonna need more to keep improving at routes.
Power Endurance: Full crimp position pumps me out WAY faster than if I can stay openhanded. That position will get worked this winter.
Holds: Monos. My pocket strength is good, but somewhere along the line I lost mono strength. They were popular back in the day, and since I spend several weeks at Wild Iris every year... they are necessary for 13's and up.
Lock offs: I have a big gap in my lock off spots, specifically when a foot is far to the side, and my lock off arm is away from my body. I can usually get around it with minor trickery, but it's worth working.
Power: All around. I'm pretty solid up to V7 or V8, but I'm gonna need more to keep improving at routes.
Power Endurance: Full crimp position pumps me out WAY faster than if I can stay openhanded. That position will get worked this winter.
Holds: Monos. My pocket strength is good, but somewhere along the line I lost mono strength. They were popular back in the day, and since I spend several weeks at Wild Iris every year... they are necessary for 13's and up.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
Re: Climbing Weakness
SCIN wrote:Grip: I favor my pinky over my index finger which is bizarre but i can't stop.
i can't imagine ever using my pinky for anything other than typing. maybe it's because i was trained as a harpist where pinkies are useless because they're too short to touch the strings. perhaps it's time for me to develop pinky strength and maybe i'll climb as hard as you one day
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun