RRC Archives

I have watched many people climb Ro (hanging out at the 8, you know me always climbing 8s), and I have noticed two dangerous things about Ro: 1. When making the third clip most people choose to do a hard lock off and clip way over their heads. Then you have to stay locked off to clip the rope over your head. If you fall while clipping over your head on the third bolt, there is great potential to take a grounder. I saw one guy lock off and clip the draw over his head and then he got so pumped he proceeded to climb, did the heal-hook move, and finally clipped in the rope, that way he got to switch arms. Recently I saw a group climbing it and one of them recommended stick-clipping the third bolt (without your rope attached to the draw) to make it safer. 2. Cleaning it sure does look dangerous. After he told me that one of his friends was cleaning it and was pumped out of his mind. Around the third bolt he got on the wall and started down-climbing to retrieve the draw at the second bolt. I felt like there was about to be a disaster, but he managed to get it, up-climbed, then his belayer took hard, and he dodged the disaster I felt was about to occur but not without taking a huge swing. One of his friends ended up climbing up to the first bolt and retrieving that draw. I thought to myself "that route looks fun as hell but I'm just not going to risk climbing it until I'm a lot better (unlike a lot of other people I have seen who chose to climb it, usually it's the original leaders climbing partner) and cleaning it looks like a pain in the a$$".

The solution seems very simple: 1 perma draw attached to the third bolt. Not only would it make clipping the third bolt twice as easy but it could also be used to prevent the large swing while cleaning. Someone told me if the third bolt has a long sling it's even safer. Maybe one of those perma draws attached to a very small chain would be even better?

cleaning biner? an easier soultion is to just change the guidebook.

"Ro shampoo: this overhyped 12 is the one to the left with all the chalk. try tic tac (to the right) for a better climb, or, just go somewhere else with dozens of superior routes"

pumpout2004 wrote:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF75M_KhHms

gumby power *activate*!

pumpout2004 wrote:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF75M_KhHms

Jesus. Well at least they trust each other now.

pumpout2004 wrote:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF75M_KhHms

or should he have almost said....
















DEATH FALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL!

That was about six inches from being the stupidest thing I've ever seen.
(that's what she said)

You should climb it one time Redpoint - would teach you a lot

Just a suggestion. I checked our incident log and saw that we made six trips up to Roadside in the past two years to treat and carry busted-up climbers down that god-awful trail. It's awkward and strenuous for litter bearers due to its narrowness and steep sections. Last Saturday when we hiked up to Ro, we passed at least 25 climbers coming down the trail. We could have used some help - especially when the litter had to be passed through steep, narrow sections. Also, it would have been nice to have some relief. Most of us were on the litter from Ro to the parking lot. So, if you happen to be near an accident in the future, please consider offering to help with the litter. We'd really appreciate it.

Rick - WCSART

PS - I don't want to forget one climber who helped. Zac, you were great. Thanks!

pumpout2004 wrote:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF75M_KhHms

Stupid is as stupid does... I hate climbing anywhere near idiots like that. You know it is going to ruin your day of climbing someday.