RRC Archives

Aviary has some glue. Cutthroat has a tad.

Gluing is more of a NRG thing.

I was climbing at the New once. Lowered off a climb that had no less than a dozen glued crimps where you are basically just crimping epoxy. I couldn't fathom the rational for such a thing. Another climber near-by assured me that without the glue there would be no route (it is here that I should note that this route was a 12c variation on an existing 12a route that didn't have glue). I replied "You are right. There might not be a 5.12 here if there was no glue..."

I think I have climbed that route JR.


Yea, I can think of ten or so routes at the red with glue, most have already been mentioned.

Ethics Police is missing the hold but some of the glue is still there.

Psycopathy

The Madness

JR wrote:Aviary has some glue. Cutthroat has a tad.

Gluing is more of a NRG thing.

I was climbing at the New once. Lowered off a climb that had no less than a dozen glued crimps where you are basically just crimping epoxy. I couldn't fathom the rational for such a thing. Another climber near-by assured me that without the glue there would be no route (it is here that I should note that this route was a 12c variation on an existing 12a route that didn't have glue). I replied "You are right. There might not be a 5.12 here if there was no glue..."

sounds like Villian's Course

Banshee and Ethics Police?... i kinda thought the line to cross for glueing holds back on would start in the 12 range. I was quite suprised when i saw the huge vein of epoxy on Seeker. I guess i thought that wasn't accepted practice at the red... seems like it's few and far between.

i say let em break.

In the right hands, you'll never know if a route is glued or not.

I did a figure four on that glued hold to bypass the crux.

bcombs wrote:I did a figure four on that glued hold to bypass the crux.

Crazy, because I did a figure four on the crux holds to bypass the glued hold!

bcombs wrote:I did a figure four on that glued hold to bypass the crux.

Je lève mon chapeau à vous, monsieur.

I heard that Pig glued the Iniquity ramp on. It should hold.