RRC Archives

Andrew wrote:The original post is retarded. Of course its perfectly safe if done properly, so is space travel, but lowering has less and simpler steps. Also Rapping isn't possible on steep routes. Case closed, move on.

I apologize if, in my attempt to learn something from those more experienced than myself, that I have revealed myself mentally handicapped and inconvenienced you. I guess all those times I have set a rappel line from the anchors on routes that were not vertical most have been in my imagination as well.

brooke wrote:statistically speaking, descending is where most accidents occur in our sport. i'm not saying that one is guaranteed to have an accident while doing this, but i think it is important to keep in mind that there is the potential for catastrophic failure in the system at this point....

Yes, most accidents happen on the decent, but keep in mind that it is not specifically talking about rappelling. The are talking about climbing in general (mountaineering, ice climbing, etc...). Most accidents happen on the decent because people are tired or rushed, usually because they pushed the limits of good weather or daylight. Not that I have ever done that.... =)

*yawn

Also, one might want to consider the anchor configuration before deciding to rap or lower. Lowering off of anchors that are set far apart will put kinks in one's rope for days.

blakeleathers wrote:*yawn

+1

mike_a_lafontaine wrote:

Andrew wrote:I guess all those times I have set a rappel line from the anchors on routes that were not vertical most have been in my imagination as well.

Yep...







Boring

I think the dangers associated with multi-pitch rappelling are what gives rappelling the title of being the most dangerous. And nearly all of those perceived dangers only exist because people still refuse to tie a knot in the end of the rope.

i prefer to rap if i can for the reason previously stated, i am in control of my descent, not the belayer. i follow pretty much the exact steps the OP outlined, testing the direct anchor, then testing the rappel setup. It isn't any more dangerous, it is easier on the anchors, and most importantly i am in control of my own life, i like that. sometimes you have to lower to clean, i understand that. why are we arguing about this anyways? isn't it a matter of personal preference (other than the obvious anchor wear?). Do what you want, none of it is 100% safe, so is the nature of the beast.

For whatever it is worth, I do it just like you except that I tie the knot to my harness vs. the anchors. I see no differance in safety vs. lowering.

Usually it goes like this...

Step 1: Grunt to the 3rd or 4th bolt. Yell "Take".
Step 2: Brush
Step 3: Grunt one bolt at a time until I reach bolt n (the highest bolt). Between each bolt yell "take" and brush. Occasionally go in direct.
Step 4: Yell "dirt".

Of course this only works on routes that are equipped. Based on recent conversation, half the Red will be equipped here soon, so I'm all set.