Lion's Head

Post by **air canada** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 6:21 pm

The 11d off the ledge is Scalphunter, definately an awesome route! Not sure of the name of the 11b beside it.
So you think you know good Kung-fu (Kung-fu for short) 11dThe Doggies dirt pipe is not in the book-its on the Lativian ledge(same leddge as for busted at berford) on the end by Green velvet
Niagro 12c
I wonder where the lions are 12a
Far from the maddening crowd 11c

Some 10s
American Bucks 10b
Nimbus 10b
Maneline 10a
Lost at Sea 10c
Mr Bojangles 10d
Ladyslipper 10
More of the 10s are off of hanging belays, once you get into harder stuff you can find more climbs off of ledges.

White's is the rainy day crag-there are some other crags in the area besides lion's head and whites, but not as good. IMO
Cape Croker/Indian Ladder has also had some good new sport route developement that has had some favourable reviews, but I haven't checked it out. It may not be in the guidebook you ordered, but its by the Cape Croker campground so they could tell you how to get there.

Post by **pigsteak** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 6:51 pm

I do boulder, but we are planning on staying solely around the lions Head area...this is a "take it easy, relax a long time" sort of trip...

to all, thanks a million for the route suggestions.I will tick em all just for you guys.

one other thing..with the book in hand, is it easy finding the routes from on top? Like do they have markers or anything, or would it be best to get a local to get us started? Maybe I am jumping the gun, and the book will sort me out when it gets here. 8)

Post by **Power2U** » Mon Jul 28, 2003 3:30 pm

air canada's list of 10's will be a good intro. to Lions Head. A for White's coming from the Red you'll have no problem on the steep routes there just give the 11 face climbs there a go and they'll come to you no problem...the lime stone here isn't super polished like a lot of places can be.

Good luck findin the routes from the top...it's not too bad once you get oriented. I am sure the locas will be helpful....everyone's so nice in Canada!

Post by **air canada** » Fri Aug 01, 2003 7:56 pm

If you'd like some video of the Bruce peninsula check out the video 'the experience' Except that the bouldering shown has been closed.
It's on the website
www.blurrstuff.com
under the topic
'you' and 'blurr_film'

Post by **pigsteak** » Fri Aug 01, 2003 8:21 pm

thanks a mil! that was really inspiring...who was the artist on the sound?

Post by **pigsteak** » Fri Aug 01, 2003 8:32 pm

I Mother Earth....just needed to wait for the credits to roll....

I see Air Canada is a featured climber....nice vid

Post by **air canada** » Fri Aug 01, 2003 8:44 pm

Not sure who the sound was by-I'll check into it.
There's a pretty good chance youl'l run into some more of the people in the video up at Lion's Head, they might be able to tell you off hand what it is.
There's also some video of bouldering on the 'rock' on the blurrstuff site too.
The 'Rock' is off the east coast of Canada, in cold inhospitable water. Brrr.

Post by **air canada** » Fri Aug 01, 2003 8:47 pm

Thanks, Dave 'Zoolie' did an awesome job on it!
I was one of the guys falling-big surprise.

Post by **tomdarch** » Fri Aug 01, 2003 10:50 pm

cool video - video of sport climbing can be a bit like televised golf, but they kept the pace really moving! (It was a bit unreassuring to see that guy pull that block out, though!)