RRC Archives

I spoke with Rangers at the Visitor Center in Middlesborough about White Rocks climbing a few years ago. Not allowed they said. I am not sure that would stop me, as you are the first person I have heard of who has climber there, Ray. I know climbers who live in SW Va and they didn't know of anyone having climbed there either. I think it would be a safe bet, but as JEA said, I also wouldn't want to rock the boat. However, we all know what the yield is when low level federal bureaucrats have to make a decision. It will never happen.... I guess I would wait, but not too long.

ray womack wrote:I have a photo of one of us standing on the top of that feature;...

Got a scanner?

That is completely annoying. Are they just being cowardly, or do they have a wildlife excuse or something? It's the biggest rock in Va., well-protected and just beautiful. What a pity. Well, we got our routes in the 60s and thought they were some of the best we ever did. Of course, we didn't bother to ask the rangers. I didn't know it was closed, but being a child of the 60s, I'd have just stealthed it and stayed as quiet as possible. Maybe I'll post a couple of pictures first chance I get.

Ray W.

I can't find anywhere in the info on the park that climbing is off limits. Is it all hearsay or is this info posted somewhere?

I had called the rangers at the visitor center some years back and got the same reply about climbing being the devils fruit and thus prohibited by god and men and women in ill fitting green slacks. Straight up the road from the visitor center there is the pinnacle overlook and to the left of the overlook in a small pinnacle maybe 25-30 feet high and the diameter of a large tree (yeah, real accurate size description I know). This pinnacle had many old pitons and I could make out tattered webbing and some sort of anchor at the top. White Rocks certainly looked as if it had some good long adventure climbing when I went backpacking in that area as well.

just do it

The comment period for the Cumberland Gap General Management Plan ended in October of last year. From what I saw in the Plan it looked like climbing would be allowed in designated areas in the future. You might want to call the park office and see if they could tell you when a Record of Decision is expected on the Plan.

It seems to me to be a travesty to close what would turn out to be the best backcountry climbing in Va. On the other hand, it's been closed all these years while climbing has turned into a big sport. Someone would get to open dozens of new multipitch routes, many of them in today's terms, moderate. I think there would be little reason for bolts. Can you think of anyplace like that in the SE US? Someone needs to sell the merchants of the valley on the wisdom of inviting a whole bunch of expensively outfitted outdoor maniacs to come explore a totally new place. The local folk would take care of the Park Service. Just try to look up Va. rock climbing and find anything remotely comparable. This place represents a unique opportunity. It reminds me very much of Seneca, but untouched.

When our scanner gets back up, I'll send you guys some flix. In the meantime, how could I get hold of TradMike's wonderful air photo? Fine place. Maybe if I could expand it I might see some landmarks to shore up my failing memory.

Ray Womack

I'm in. At this point I think there is enough confusion to get out of the ticket. So lets finds some able bodies and go for it.