RRC Archives

RRO wrote:if you see someone fixing to eat shit be the jerk of the moment if you have to be...

well said.

You'd think that with all the big precious heads floating around the red, it'd be the first thing they'd wanna protect...

very high first bolts, and stick clips help...and helmets.

the petzl meteor III is still the best helmet you can get.

As neal strickland used to tell me "one day, you'll be able to say you were wearing helmets before they were cool" 8)

What if you feel funny in it? Esp when people giggle

you should bring your abilities up to the climb, not the climb down to your ability. if there is a potential ground fall that your concerned about go over the moves in you mind till you feel comfortable or realize your over your head and down climb. climbing is dangerous, sport climbing has taken some of the risk out since you can rest at every bolt and bail when ever but it is still dangerous.

pigsteak wrote:very high first bolts, and stick clips help...and helmets.

Amen. Been preaching this for years. First bolt around 16 feet; second one no more than about 5.5 feet above first one. Then reasonably space em out there on up . Don't believe it? Do the math. With decent belaying you will not deck even if you reach high to clip the second and come off.

There are a lot of routes around the area with spacing similar to this: first bolt 12 feet; second bolt 10 feet above first one. Do the math - automatic decking for the climber who butters off while reaching high to clip the second.

Several routes in Muir have recently had bolts 1 and 2 relocated to minimize chance of decking, and more will be re-spaced in the future.

Even some of the top gun developers seem not to pay attention to the spacing of bolts 1 and 2. Free country; develop as you wish, but don't do it at MV.

RW

And people are still complaining about high first bolts and the need to use stick clips!

KD wrote:What if you feel funny in it? Esp when people giggle

Fuck Em' if they can't take a joke...

Think of it this way- in the long run, you'll still still be around in 10 years, and you can giggle back about their colostomy bags and neck halos...

jdstic2 wrote:you should bring your abilities up to the climb, not the climb down to your ability. if there is a potential ground fall that your concerned about go over the moves in you mind till you feel comfortable or realize your over your head and down climb. climbing is dangerous, sport climbing has taken some of the risk out since you can rest at every bolt and bail when ever but it is still dangerous.

it has nothing to do with your abilities. rock breaks, holds get slimy and full of sand. i've fallen on routes that I've already sent and decked twice when holds have broken. there are always risks that cannot be identified ahead of time and they can bite you in the ass. I do think there is a line between precaution (stick clipping the first bolt, wearing a helmet) and taking the route down to your level (stick clipping the third/fourth bolt, top roping it 80 times). and alana says you need to go back to contraction school, its "you're"