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Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 1:44 am
by Redpoint
But I haven't even read chapter 5 yet "Climbing Your First 5.12".

Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 1:42 pm
by JR
I couldn't help but look at your ticklist Redpoint. You haven't climbed 5.11 yet? I don't think Eric Horst would recommend skipping 5.11 to do Hit-strip workouts.

Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 3:28 pm
by TradMike
Beer has liquid protein and carbs

Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 3:55 pm
by KD
It's not a twelve until you climb it - so that's ok

Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 4:15 pm
by der uber
I recommend sending a few climbs as you ramp up to Twinkie. Not only are these good in their own right but it should help you prepare:

Bandolier
Recoil
The Infidel
Horn
Velvet
Return of Chris Snyder
Special Boy
Spirit Fingers
King Me
Up Yonder
Kick Me in the Jimmies

These aren't necessarily the same style as Twinkie, but would be good to be able to send some of these as a foundation.

Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 8:46 pm
by One-Fall
Redpoint, der uber sends everything he gets on, so he doesn't really understand what it takes to have to work for something. However, if you could run the 11 wall at Torrent (2 of the climbs he lists) and do velvet (very overhung sweetness) I agree, that you would be ready for Twinkie.

If you just jump on Twinkie, I expect you will feel it is too hard to ever consider linking to the top, but ive seen you climb, and i know that if you got your anerobic endurance up, you could do it.

Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 8:57 pm
by gripster
It funny you would mention King Me, that is the route that is on the cover of the book you guys are talking about! And it is also harder than some 12's i have tried, but is also one of the best routes I have ever been on. Every RRG climber has got to give it a go!

Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 9:02 pm
by KD
I think he should try the one next to jersey connection at roadside - Stay the Hand. It's a gym climbers kind of 12

Posted: Wed May 26, 2010 9:53 pm
by Rollo
doesn't everybody know who redpoint is by now...