RRC Archives

you're weak

my experience- being a tad more robust than your average Madness Cave dweller my climbing partner who by the way ain't no twiggy himself can relate to ynp1 in that the lowering was more an issue than the fall catching, we really appreciated having a glove on the brake side- that was with the now gone 9.5, the 9.8 and above are no issue

I use a 9.5 Sterling Fusion and it works great with a grigri, although in the beginning I treated my grigri as though it were an ATC. Now the rope has swelled to where it feels like a 9.8 or a 10.

For skinny ropes, I prefer the SUM. That device is much easier to learn and it locks up more easily than a gri. From my experience, it's harder to mess up. One of the caveats though is that it doesn't work on thick ropes.

Meadows wrote:For skinny ropes, I prefer the SUM. That device is much easier to learn and it locks up more easily than a gri.

Again, just keep your hand on the brake end of the rope. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jlUlVyt6h0

I used a 9.5 with a gri-gri with no issues at all.

for brand new slick ropes under 9.8 you might get some slippage, but not during a fall, you will only get slippage under gentle load like really LIGHT climber gently leaning back on a vertical wall.

As long as the belayer isn't totally clueless it shouldn't be a problem. I'd wouldn't want to try the gri-gri with anything under 9mm though.

caribe wrote:

Meadows wrote:For skinny ropes, I prefer the SUM. That device is much easier to learn and it locks up more easily than a gri.

Again, just keep your hand on the brake end of the rope. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jlUlVyt6h0

in the video you posted, if that happened with a SUM I don't think having your hand on the "brake" line would make a difference.

Shamis wrote:

caribe wrote:

Meadows wrote:For skinny ropes, I prefer the SUM. That device is much easier to learn and it locks up more easily than a gri.

Again, just keep your hand on the brake end of the rope. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jlUlVyt6h0

in the video you posted, if that happened with a SUM I don't think having your hand on the "brake" line would make a difference.

I am almost certain that you are wrong. Tension from the break end would generate friction between the metal/ nylon interface and would lead the device to lock.

caribe wrote:

Meadows wrote:For skinny ropes, I prefer the SUM. That device is much easier to learn and it locks up more easily than a gri.

Again, just keep your hand on the brake end of the rope. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jlUlVyt6h0

Um, did you watch that video? It was demonstrating that the SUM doesn't work with some carabiners.

Meadows wrote:

caribe wrote:

Meadows wrote:For skinny ropes, I prefer the SUM. That device is much easier to learn and it locks up more easily than a gri.

Again, just keep your hand on the brake end of the rope. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jlUlVyt6h0

Um, did you watch that video? It was demonstrating that the SUM doesn't work with some carabiners.

Watch the video again if you have to. The break end was not held. Isn't freaking obvious that with the weight of the climber on one end pulling up and your hand on the break at your hip that the device would rectify itself?