RRC Archives

the 11b has a "badass" sit down rest...

Hm, looks like someone's never seen a truly sketchy anchor

Am I missing something or is the left one perfect?

that's what it looks like to me... why would you lower off fixed gear anyways? I've never been on a route where I HAD to lower.

The left one looks fine. The bottom part of the ring on the right is a little scary but actually, look at the top part of that ring where it meets up with the link above it. Upon seeing that, I'd start to wonder if the ring on the left could handle the impact if the right one gave...now the left ring doesn't look so good either. Shoot, I was just thinking about going up to pay creature feature a visit!

BTW, I'm a rapper. Maybe it's from years of trad but it's more of a habit now. I just feel better when I rappel...even if it's only a 30ft route...as ridiculous as that sounds.

Sorry cliftongifford, but after looking at your ticklist it is no surprise the you have never been on a route where you HAD to lower. That was not a cut at your climbing ability, just a statement of fact that many harder sport routes are just plain dangerous or impossible to clean on rappel. Also, I just bought 14 biners for the sole reason of replacing worn out fixed gear.

Those rings are fine. The right one is not going to "fail" for a long time, and the left one is almost pristine. If you're worried about it, rap, fix the anchor, or leave biners and stop whining for fuck's sake.

And yeah, on anything steeper than 20 degrees it is pretty much impossible to rap unless you want to have a completely stoogey epic and start begging for a fireman's from somebody on the ground. That said, yes you should rap on easy routes like Creature Feature.

Well, if the last person up does it on toprope, and cleans the draws on the way up, rappng isn't a problem no matter how steep the route is.

jordancolburn wrote:Well, if the last person up does it on toprope, and cleans the draws on the way up, rappng isn't a problem no matter how steep the route is.

This is true, but there is also a point where seconding a steep route is a pain in the ass as well. Especially if the climber comes off just after unclipping and is now out in space.

sounds like we have a volunteer to be toproping bitch! it is always great to have one at the crag.