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Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 9:50 pm
by mike_anderson
You can climb on that. Obviously bouldering isn't a good idea, but most routes at the red don't require you to really stand on your feet too hard, so you should be fine.
I did the exact same thing to my ankle last winter playing basketball, and I had a trip planned to Smith 3 weeks later (where you do have to stand on your feet). My ankle was a little week, but I was able to send.
Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 9:51 pm
by mike_anderson
Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 11:18 pm
by toad857
injury-time aside, ankle braces/supports (up to and including big sturdy work boots) will weaken your ankles in the same way that caffeine will weaken your ability to focus. try flip flops. or better yet, go barefoot.
how does the old adage go? give an ankle a brace and you support it for a day... teach and ankle to fish and you will never eat poptarts again.
or something like that.
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 12:02 am
by Meadows
I'd like to see sources on that, especially caffeine. An ankle brace adds compression in addition to stability.
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 12:15 am
by KD
therabands are great for strength and recovery from injuries. maybe an ace brace (soft) will give you support so you dont roll under when you fall.
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 2:43 am
by Shamis
Does your ankle twist outward or inward?
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 4:31 am
by Saxman
Buy a wobble board and use it daily for the rest of your life. Wear an ankle brace while bouldering for the next 6-12 months depending on how well it recovers. Be warned, some ankles never fully recover, especially those that have been injured multiple times.
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 1:25 pm
by gripster
Shamis, I have turned it inwards both times that I have severely injured it. And Saxman, trust me I know! The first time I noticed a real problem was after a bushwhack/hike i did a long time ago. We followed a survey trail along a steep hill side, which put a lot of stress on my ankle, after that day every time i moved my ankle it would pop!
About the ankle supports, my doctor did recommend to not wear any support too much. According to him, if you stabilize an ankle after a sprain, the lack of motion causes the swelling to get worse, and takes it a lot longer to go down. He recommended doing all of the movements like was suggested earlier. I do no want to wear an ankle brace or support my ankle all of the time, just when I am bouldering. I am hoping it will prevent my ankle from turning as easily as it has in the past if I take a fall. My main concern about most of the braces I have seen is that I will not be able to get my shoe over top of the things.
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 2:20 pm
by anticlmber
may just have to buy/find a bigger shoe or modify it. if you really want to do something, (even if it may not be a great idea) you'll find a way.
be careful on a slackline since they really exploit unstable ankle and the landings may not be the best.
Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 4:50 pm
by tutugirl
This is what I am doing to break scar tissue from my ankle surgery....
http://www.danceshop.co.nz/catalog/images/photo10.jpg