RRC Archives

I talk to myself, and like julie, sometimes I strip for the send...or put chalk on my forehead.
But the best mind game that I've found yet is to come up with sound effects for the crux and after, then make them on the ground, in your head, and while resting before whichever section.

I like to pretend im not a coward.

I use the "didn't want to send that anyway" mind trick. It works...

I always tell my self I'm going to climb to the next bolt and then decide then weather to hang or not... then when I get to the bolt I figure I might as well keep climbing because if I were to fall it wouldn't be a very big one. And then I just focus on getting to the next bolt.

woman, I like the sound effect game idea - that makes sense because of the association you'd develop.

Green3, interesting perspective, I like that, too.

TankAzz, I'm holding you to this next time we climb together, especially if allah is there bolting nearby, since we know he'll play along.

I always tell myself, my arms THINK they are pumped well before they actually are. Just relax and keep going, and don't pay attention to what your mind is trying to convince you of, if it is trying to convince you that you are pumped and you are going to fall before you reach the next bolt. Seems to work.

Sometimes I also pretend my legs are weightless. Drugs help facilitate that feeling.

This is something I do on routes that are <= vert, the slabby, techy ones that can seem steeper than they really are. I will walk/scramble around until I can get an accurate view of the angle(s). Then when I am on the route and freaking out because it is so steep and hard I can remember that it really isn't that steep. This sometimes helps.

Sometimes I get so anxious for a send that it negatively affects me. So I like to think about my potential send in the grand scheme of things and how insignificant it is. It helps me to relax and get back to just having fun trying to send a route.

I also tend to lack confidence and to get over that I look at the number of non-freaks (like myself) that have sent a route which helps me to realize that I can send it too. By non-freaks I mean regular people like myself that have to train super hard to send what others may warm up on. For example, seeing Adam Taylor do a route does nothing for me in terms of how possible it may be for me to send it too. But seeing someone lame like Andrew send a route gives me an automatic send in my head which usually turns into the real thing.

gripster wrote:...keep going...

#1 best advice ever for increasing one's sending potential.

I press "my own personal pause button". Then, I picture Tony Horton, and he says "5,4,3,2,1, get it up!". Then I do a few moves and I fall.

Do your best and forget the rest.