RRC Archives

Heady!! There have been two bolts added to the route since the fa. hell it use to be real spicy!

So how do you stick that reachy move on the first bulge. I was underclinging the blocky hold with my right hand, reaching up left, then kinda lunging up left and letting my right go at the same time. I could hit the hold, just couldn't hold all my wieght on it.

Benny, how tall are you? I can reach that. I don't know which hand I undercling with though -- it may be my left instead of right.

Tbone, right on. Definitely don't want you to spill the beta here. Last time I was on it I was telling my belayer "that move was hard but there is probably some secret beta I am missing ...".

SCROTUMSEEKER, check your PMs.

That's what BBerlier said last night. He felt like he was missing the key hold(s) but was able to do it anyway.

I'm a hair shy of 6'2". Maybe the left hand undercling is the way to go. I wanted my right hand on that hold anyway. I was just positioned to go up left, and could find better feet that way. It feels like I should be able to reach it, but I just couldn't pull it off. Maybe next time.

But how the hell would you do it if you were shorter. My friend finished the route for me (with much grumbling from the last bolt to the anchors), but he had to aid that reachy move. He's about 5'7", but a much better all-around climber than me.

I think that the moves over the bulge and before the roof are the crux. The last roof is pretty juggy.

benny , i am only 5' 8 '' but i have long arms. it is a reach for me but i get my feet up high. i use my left hand on undercling.

Cool. Thanks for the help everyone.

hey t-bone, what bolts did you say had been added?

Hf ,The last bolt on the slab and the very last bolt were not there on the Fa. i added them about a year later. i put the anchors in then also.