Kentucky Bouldering

Post by **sendit** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 12:43 am

OK, made it out last Sunday in the cold, melting snow nastiness. It was still fun and we even got a bit lost which is requirement whenever I go bouldering. We also left WAY late, another requirement.
We checked out the mainside - many good problems there - friday the 13th, some other sick crimp line adam sent, and the 1070 traverse all excellent. I liked the short crimpy roof problems to the right of the 1070 problem too. Especially if you make them eliminates you can get 3-4 problems out of a small chunk of rock.
We tried hiking across the road to see what was there but came up empty handed with wet shoes and cold hands. At this point we only had about 45 mins of daylight. We hiked back to the top of the cliff sort of aimlessly but managed to get to the backside. WHOA! These problems are super fun, big moves, big holds, bomber (lean machine, holly go lightly, etc)!
We then hightailed it across the hill to finish on two other fun problems. Maybe rumpelstiltskin or something like that? Both started with a cool sit down start on a half moon hold.

Never did find or quite understand where the "twelve step program" problem was which is the one that looked super rad...will have to return.

Post by **whatahutch** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 11:15 am

I'm excited about checking this place out. Too bad you haven't set up a point system. I am sure the place would be packed with problems if you did.

Post by **Nick** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 12:56 pm

do many of these top out or is it mostly like the cove where you drop off?

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 1:47 pm

half and half

Post by **kafish2** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 3:46 pm

pretty much all of them have the potential to top out with some cleaning. My thinking is bring multple big scrub brushes

Post by **tbwilsonky** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 5:35 pm

what kyle said. there are a few problems that might never top out because 1) it would be silly or 2) there is perma-grime. but most everything tops out - and high to boot.

a few must do problems at Mainside:

Friday the 13th (v5/6) crimpiness with a high exit to the left.

Bob Downey (v5) make a trick move off the most perfect crimp in the world and finish with a mantle.

1070 (v7) pumpy ass roof traverse into a scary ass highball. first problem put up in rockcastle.

Cascade (v5) awesome tensiony face-climbing; exit high.

Pherman Shoto Roof (v7) cool roof with an awkward slopey finish.

Pad Surfer (v4) awesome roof with enormous holds to high crimpy finish.

-t

Post by **Shamis** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 10:06 pm

Nearly every time I've gone out there I've spend a lot of time scrubbing something for a high topout.

If you're interested in trying something new out there make sure you bring all the brushes you own. And probably a rope too.

Post by **ender52** » Wed Dec 16, 2009 9:10 pm

Just checked this place out yesterday and was quite impressed. I did not expect to find problems this good in Kentucky. Some good moderates, great looking hard problems I can't get on, and lots and lots of potential.

I was thinking I'd start working on a little printable guide to this place as a fun winter project.

Post by **Shamis** » Thu Dec 17, 2009 12:33 am

ender52 wrote:Just checked this place out yesterday and was quite impressed. I did not expect to find problems this good in Kentucky. Some good moderates, great looking hard problems I can't get on, and lots and lots of potential.

I was thinking I'd start working on a little printable guide to this place as a fun winter project.

there already is a little printable guide. Look at the original post.

Post by **ender52** » Thu Dec 17, 2009 7:00 am

Yeah, I was just thinking it could be organized into a nice little 2 page guide.