RRC Archives

Second that. Bombs Bursting is not a newbie route in my opinion. Party Time is pretty moderate with good stances for placing gear.

Point taken. Bombs Bursting would not be a good route to learn trad on lead, but it would be a good route to clean to see and learn placements. I was thinking of routes that would be mostly passive. I think Party Time would be a lot more of a technical route to lead passive than Bombs Bursting, especially the wide start. Maybe several big hexes would work. Where have you been, Overhung?

Layin' low brother. Waiting for the rest of my cams to come in. Party Time is scary at the bottom, especially the chossy stuff.

Father and Son is super casual and can be well protected with only nuts. I think it's maybe 5.7.

I thought you were going to be out here in CO?

On a recent trip I used both Father and Son and Casual Viewing to help a couple of sport buddies learn some trad. Since both climbs have anchors you can mock lead them. I have also used Environmental Impact, another 5.7, for mock leading.

hamsco wrote:spring for some Lowe tri-cams next. The Pink (.5) and the red (1) are great for the Red

The pink tri-cam works really well just about everywhere! (Yosemite, Red Rocks, NV, J-Tree, etc.) They won't let you lead at the Gunks without at least one on your rack! Just be careful, the Gunks are full of 'fixed' pink tricams.

The pink tri-cam - don't leave the ground without it.

Back to your point - I remember Five Finger Discount at Roadside working well with nuts, but the traverse over to the anchors is a pain.

"but the traverse over to the anchors is a pain."

But it is an easy traverse.

Jeff wrote:"but the traverse over to the anchors is a pain."

But it is an easy traverse.

Oh! Wait a minute! It's been a few years since I did Five Finger Discount. At that time you had to traverse 25' or so to get to the anchors for Jump for Joy. It was easy, but annoying (especially for a sport-->trad climber - "the anchors should be at the top of the climb!") I forgot that there is/are new sport climbs between FFD and JfJ - maybe the traverse is a lot shorter now?

The anchors are still 25' to the right, but I don't believe they are the Jump for Joy anchors. Seems to me the anchors for JFJ are lower. It's been awhile since I've been on JFJ though.
By easy, I just mean that it is easy terrain to cover. I placed one piece(cam) only on account of the person following.

the start on Jump for Joy skeered me