RRC Archives

Nice job adam.

I got to visit the chocolate factory for the first time this past rocktoberfest weekend. Amazing wall, and these two routes on the main wall are some of the most inspiring lines I have ever seen. Strong work adam, congrats!

twan wrote:what is it rated?

5.9d

pigsteak wrote:

krampus wrote:for sure, I've just looked at it and it just looked ridiculous. Very nice.

not bad for pansy sport climbers, eh Kramp?

I suppose its pretty bad ass. Don't see why he didn't just rack a few tri cams for that one but....

I saw Adam on it a few years ago. THe route is one of the sickest things I have seen. That upper boulder problem looked very hard after a 5.14 approach. I would love to hear a play by play.

Super cool send! That wall is so awesome looking--it is fun that it is officially climbable now (at least by mutants)! Is the bee hive still up there?

steep4me wrote:Is the bee hive still up there?

no. i got hungry... so i climbed the other route on the wall, broke in to the hive, and ate the honey. it's gone.

Well first things first, I give my thanks to Kenny for bolting yet another perfect route here at the Red River Gorge! It still amazes me that routes that this can even exist, every hold seems as though it was sculpted and purposely placed. As for all of the effort and frustration I put into this route, it was totally worth every second, not sure this is true for Rachel though(my belayer). Most routes that take more than a couple weeks to complete usually bring boredom eventually leading to giving up, but not this one.
As for the route itself... it starts out nice and slow with maybe a 12c to the 4th bolt, wherein lies a massive jug slot, just enough to get one warmed up. The eight move sequence leading to the next bolt consists of thin moves and ends with a long desperate stab to a two finger pocket (the most frustrating move of the route). As a boulder problem it may be around V9. Three long moves will get you to the next bolt where you can obtain your final real rest in a 1 pad left hand slot and 1.5 pad right hand slot. Moving right leads to a long lunge to a perfect sloping hole which you match and make an even longer lunge/dyno to another 1.5 pad slot. The route to this move would probably be around 14a, but instead of clipping some anchors you abruptly and ruthlessly trend left into a 9 move V10ish boulder problem. With a hand foot match, precise finger placement, a heel hook, and a desperate stab you will end up on two small crimps where you can get a few shakes so long as your forearms aren't pumped more than a tank full of gas. From here you still have 8 or 9 more hard moves before you can grasp the finishing jug, with the final move being the hardest (I found this out by falling past the last bolt six time last spring). The options for the last move are to full out dyno or use a bad sloping crimp to awkwardly cross.
As for the grade, I do not know... It is definitely a step up from both versions of 50, smoke, and lucifer, but not enough to make the next grade at the red in my opinion. I expect to see some quick ascents in the near future, maybe by those who will be more enlightened than I about its rating.
For those asking about the name, I'm not sure what the ethics are surrounding this, but it seems like the name has already grounded itself.
Adam

Thanks for the story adam, and congrats. I am glad a local, or at least local enough did it first. Its good to see your hard work pay off.

well done.