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Its only 5.6 but I think Eureka is the best of routes in this grade, the only problem there isn't any other easy sport routes around it.

I'd get on either Eureka (5.6) or 27 Years (5.8.) I know neither of them are 5.7, but those ones at Muir are so short that you finish them and think 'meh.' The 5.8 at the Shire is also really good, and there's a 7 next to it if you're so inclined. There's also a feature in the print guidebook that has the best climbs under 5.10. You could check that out.

Barnacle Ben wrote:I'd get on either Eureka (5.6) or 27 Years (5.8.)

agreed

"loosin draws due to walls out of my skill level" That is why you go to the hardware store and buy some $1.50 mallions. Mine is rated at 1500 pounds, but Rick Webber said it is only rated at that because they wanted a good safety margin, and it should hold about 5 times more than that.

If you bail off of an entire draw you are a super gumby anyhow, why not just take a carabiner off of the draw and bail off of that, now that is some problem solving.

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If you can lead 5.10 indoors then Practice Wall sounds like a waist of your time, but I think there is a 5.9+ and a 5.10B that you could toprope without having to lead there.-' Slabalito, TBD II, and Low Exposure might be sandbagged, or at least real tricky if you aren't used to slab. Dragon's Mouth 5.6 there has major rope drag, so top roping with a group on that route is a bad idea, especially with the sharp edges near the top. I thought Crescendo 5.8+ was real easy, and the overhung finish wasn't bad at all considering it's all jugs. Crescent Moon 5.9+ is Sandbagged IMO, I have done 5.11A moves that I thought were easier. There is a 5.4 and a 5.6 at practice wall, and if you are just trying to develop a good lead head you can climb those, and they make great top rope routes for kids. Ai Bang Mai Fa Kin Ni 5.7 is pretty hard for a 5.7, only because it is so crimpy, it's pretty pumpy for a 5.7.

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Bruise Brothers:

Redeye brew is a 5.8, it's hard to find and has a ledge that might trip you out, but it's a pretty easy climb.

CH4 and A-Beano are the perfect routes if you plan on top roping with a group since there is no rope drag whatsoever.

The Offering has non stop ledges so it can be scary, but it was my first lead and at least it is one rest after the other. If someone top ropes it you should switch rope ends and have them unclip as they go since it traverses so much, it would make for a nasty dangerous swing if they didn't do it like that. If someone goes to toprope after them make sure they reclip all of the biners back in as you are lowering them.

My second lead climb was Send Me On My Way, a 75 foot 5.9-, but it's more like a 5.7 jug haul with a ton of rests.

If you get done with all of that you can always head to Sunnyside and climb the 5.9 there, Kokopeli's Dream. It looks awesome but beware the book says it starts with technical slab, and even has some laybacking(a technique that requires a good amount of arm strength).

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The Great Wall:

This area makes for a great day, I have done it twice now. Take the approach to The Hideout and climb the 5.8 International Route of Pancakes there to warmup, it's real short and easy. Then folow the trail and go NorthWest to the Great Wall and stick clip Glory and Consequence 5.7 and climb the start of it, traverse over to Legends of Limonite 5.8 and climb it. After that climb Glory and Consequence, it is really pumpy for a 5.7, but the moves are easy, and if you get too pumped you can just take a hang halfway up. I once tried to warm up on it and had to take a hang on it, but I just Redpointed it this last weekend. After that you can climb La Escalada 5.6, it is pretty pumpy once you get halfway up due to the open handed crimps and odd foot placements. Make sure to let the person down from where they started, I let my friend down over the lip and he slipped and the rope slip and it put a small gash in it because of some sharp features located just above the lip. The 5.10A there looks easy, but I have heard it is really pumpy, so heads up on that.

After you climb there you might want to work up enough courage to go back to The Hideout and climb the 100 foot 5 star 5.10B Boltergeist. The start is hard, and so is the crux, but the crux is insanely well protected, and so is the whole route. It has tons of rests and is great for the beginner 5.10 leader(according to our bible, I mean guide book). The view at the top out makes it well worth it. I Onsighted it, and didn't even think I was ready for leading 5.10's, so ya just do it. After that if you still have time you should follow the trail South East and walk over to Indy Wall and climb Face Up To That Arete, a really fun 5.8. Make sure to pass up Dance of the Druids 5.9 unless you are some kind of slab expert. I did onsight it, but it had me sweating bullets, after you get above the ledge there is no good handholds, and it's just a big balancing act.

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There is also a sort of new wall called Animal Crackers, just walk towards The Boneyard and when you see a sign on the left that says "Boneyard" take that trail. It is a steep trail and sucks if it's hot, you will come to a fork and a sign that says Boneyard and points right, this is where you go left, and you will immediately come up to a small slab wall. There is a sheet of paper there with all of the routes and their grades. I think there is a 5.7 with two sets of anchors, getting to the second set is harder than getting to the first IMO. There is also 3 5.8's if I'm not mistaken, but they are tricky slab, and if you aren't used to slab just forget about this entire wall, because chances are you will find it nerve racking. I heard Abby Gabby Doo over at Boneyard is Sandbagged and not even worth climbing, so heads up on that, but there is two good 5.9's there from what I have been told.

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I hope that answered your question

EDIT:

p.s. Don't forget to worry more about not Z-clipping, back-clipping, nose-clipping, and getting the rope behind your leg then actually taking a lead fall. O and be sure to always face the gate of the biner in the opposite direction you will be traveling(that is referred to as a gumbie clip or gumbie clipping). EXAMPLE: If you are clipping the quickdraw, and plan on climbing up and to the left to your next bolt, the gate of the biner should face right when you make that clip.

that new 5.8 at the crossroads is pretty sweet too. I liked it better than eurika

if you are going to muir get on the 9 at the great arch (i forget the name). Its overbolted long and fun. Also you could try animal crackers or the boneyard there are some good 9s there.

krampus wrote:that new 5.8 at the crossroads is pretty sweet too. I liked it better than eurika

agreed

that new 5.8 at the crossroads is pretty sweet too. I liked it better than eurika

Wow good looking, I didn't even know about it. Your comment had me cracking up: "Sweet line, its like eureka's slightly more badass older sister".
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=2242

Ya most of the votes said it was a 4 star route, but Eurika is still ahead at 4.01 vs 3.64 for Boilerplate.

agreed- that had me going too krampus, classic

I think Redpoint should be nominated as the guidebook author for all sport routes under 5.9 and under.