RRC Archives

SCIN wrote:If you think the ratings at Muir are soft then you aren't climbing there enough or you're avoiding Kipp's lines. Or you're referencing outdated material.

maybe you should take a look at my spray and you'd find that I've climbed in muir quite a bit lately... they're soft. outdated material? is the online guide outdated?

I've been updating the online guide to correct the obvious soft routes but could've missed some. Are there any in particular that you can name?

De Bibliothek has some for real 11s.

Please don't downgrade any of the 10's because that's all the harder I can climb and I don't want any of my few 10's (double digits) getting downgraded to 9's (single digits.) It would really affect my psyche and my points.

I would say muir valley grades are dangerously soft.

I know a dude who upon one of his first visits at the red, went to muir the first day. He came back the night after all psyched because he bolt to bolted up a bunch of twelves and had "great success." While trying to hold back my shit eating grin, I asked him what he planned to do with his new found ability to scale "5.12." He then announced his next day plans of going to long wall to try "the gift."

Now, normally I would encourage such behaviour and even possibly come watch (moments like these are the spice of life). But, this guy is a lawyer and once really helped me out so I figured I owed him one.

Sure enough, the next day the guy found himself at the second bolt of "the gift" with his leg behind the rope and his 16 year old daughter belaying him. After an upside down fall and many failed attempts to do real 5.12 moves, the guy bailed and had me clean his gear.

Come to think of it, no, muir grades aren't soft. Especially the trad lines. Be sure to go and attempt to climb comparative grades at gorge and let me know exactly which climbs you plan on bailing off.

thats just funny cus the gift is 11.d

Yes, i have seen a lot of soft grades at Muir, but again, its not that simple. its still all really new compared to other parts of the gorge, so the climbs need time for holds to clean themselves off and for a better conscensous to be reached. I have already seen a lot of "12s" get dropped to 11s there.\

Just give it time and enjoy the climbing movement...whatever the grades are!

P.S. its Friday, bitches!!! I'm outta here!!!!!

Savage wrote:Yes, i have seen a lot of soft grades at Muir, but again, its not that simple. !

Actually, it IS that simple. Randomly select a route at muir. Climb it. Then randomly select a route of the same grade not at muir. Climb it. See which one is easier. Do this over and over again and you will find that 90 percent of the time the muir route is easier. That makes muir soft.

bitcheeeeeeeeeeezzzzzz

as of lately i have found the grades to be just as on as elsewhere.

i think all of the BBW 10s are what they are. some things are harder, others easier. could also be the style i like.

muir is great because there is almost always a route i haven't been on or sent just around the bend.