RRC Archives

I can't believe I'm about to say this, but listen to anticlimber. This first (or second) climbing experience for your peeps is the opportunity for you to instill some good ethics.

Also, if you're thinking of Roadside, more than 8 people in your party is prohibited.

Be aware of people that walk by. If they stop for a second and look they are probably interested in the climb. Make a point of asking if they want to climb it, and then arrange a situation that is fair for your group and others interested in climbing the routes you are on. Be proactive.

bcombs mentioned left field which is right next to volunteer wall that also has a couple easy climbs like 5.6 and 5.8.

i will say the 5.9 at left field (jet lag i think) will have an ass-kicker of a move for newbies.

linustgl, You've already made the first step by posting your questions here so I suspect you'll do the right thing at the crag. The urgent task now is to educate your group about how to act at the cliff before you leave. One of my biggest pet peeves is when the group is spread out all over the trail when I am trying to walk through. One other thing you can do is split your group in half if you have two leaders. Two smaller groups of 4/5 spead out over a cliff line is way better than a large group of 8/10.

As much as I hate large gumby groups and I do hate them and rarely come across friendly ones - you are just as entitle to have your gumby group as are the large tendy 5.12 groups that swarm the lode and other trendy cliffs of the month. They are often just as loud and obnoxious and usually have way more unruly unleashed dogs.

toad857 wrote:

Josephine wrote:go to dip wall....(..)

dip wall?

yes. dip wall.

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... .php?id=26

he never said he wanted to introduce them to sport climbing. i think dip wall is great. i went there when i was new with a group of about 8 or 10 and LOVED it.

animal crackers is good too. not in the printed guide so less traffic. it was pretty sunny there last time i went, though.

skip left field. i wouldn't put a beginner on the 9 and the 6 & 8 at vol wall are awfully far away if you wanted to all hang out.

I would like to know what the hell is everyone's problem with dogs? Obviously a mean or aggressive dog would be a problem but what about the nice friendly dogs. It's more than just a little bit cruel to take a dog to the red and then keep it tied up. Let the dogs have their fun! Just teach them the crag dog rules. It's not hard.

Someone should start a thread on dogs.

bcombs wrote: I wouldn't drag them out to an out of the way trad crag.... They likely won't have as good of a time, they aren't likely in hiking shape, a they are more likely to step on a copperhead and ruin your day.

There are copperheads at sport crags too, just skinnier ones.

Best overcrowding story I have:

Way back at the dawn of time when I started climbing my partners and I went to Left Flank on a Saturday afternoon hoping to get in some laps.

When we arrived at the crag we found it totally immersed in gumbiness (even more so than our gumbiness) and we got in line.

But what had happened at the crag was that one group had taken over everything. They had TRs set up on To Defy, Face Up, Bungle and Bro. Stair. We thought it was four separate groups, but in fact it was one huge glut of gumbiness...maybe 15 people total.

So we waited, but people in the group kept coming in from around the corner and hopping on the ropes that were hanging. We waited patiently until finally the day was beginning to wane and we still hadn't climbed anything. When both Face Up and Bungle were sitting empty we stepped up to the wall with our gear.

I asked the guy who seemed to be the leader of the menagerie if we could get on one of the two currently unoccupied (but claimed) routes and he said:

"We're from Michigan and we don't get to climb here much. So if you don't mind..."

I scowled at him. I was from Kentucky and didn't get to climb there much because of all the idiots from Michigan, Ohio, Indiana and Texas who hogged the routes all day.

"...and I want my wife to get a chance to do these before we take them down," he added.

About that time Bertha boom-badaed around the corner wearing lime green spandex and a tube top/sports bra. It was an ugly sight. Fat rolls flattened rhodo, knocked belayers into the bush and effectively cut us off from the crag completely.

All hope of getting on anything under 5.11 that day were dashed, as this vision of 90s era sport climbingness lumbered up to the base of the wall, tied in and began ripping edges off the wall.

She wasn't going to get up Face Up to that Crack with a boom truck, but her considerate husband was going to give her every opportunity to try. Hours would pass before the Michiganders would give in. We finally gave up and left, not wanting to enrage the guy's 500 lb. wife.

Y'know all the erosion and rounded edges at Left Flank? Started in force that day...

sherpa wrote:I would like to know what the hell is everyone's problem with dogs? Obviously a mean or aggressive dog would be a problem but what about the nice friendly dogs. It's more than just a little bit cruel to take a dog to the red and then keep it tied up. Let the dogs have their fun! Just teach them the crag dog rules. It's not hard.

this isn't about dogs, its about how to make a group less obtrusive. 8 people plus two or more dogs really starts to compound the problem.

"teach them crag dog rules" thats funny. that is something that has to be done BEFORE the crag, things like come, stay, don't go messing with shit, etc. the crag day way of teaching is kicking.

Yo sherpa do a search on the word "dog" if you want a thread to cry about how we all hate dogs at the cliff.