by the way have you ever tried to remove a fixed piece of gear like a stopper or a bombed out cam? well, everyone else who climb the route did, and trust me, if it came out easily then it would already be gone. so if you really want to deface some rock, why don't you take a jackhammer with you the next time you go climbing and start trying to remove some of this "time bomb" fixed gear.rustyvasectomy wrote:trad ethics rule! i love how its OK to have shitty fixed gear such as a permanent stopper or a rusty piton.
why are trad ethics stupid?
Re: why are trad ethics stupid?
another red river choss pile that everyone walks by until someone actually has the vision to start working it? funny how interested others get when someone goes first to pave the way....sendit wrote:what might all that glitters have look liked had it not had a bolt put at the start to hang a red tag?
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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anticlmber
- Posts: 3393
- Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 12:34 am
Shamis wrote: As for bolted anchor's on trad climbs, I think they make a lot of sense if the alternative is a tree. I used to climb at the gunks a lot about 15 years ago, and now when I go back, I see that many of the trees we used to use as rap anchors are now dead. Bolts save trees.
I agree and actually, as far as access goes, private land owners (at least the ones I have met in Southern WV and OH) prefer you do that instead of destroying the trees on their land.
And yes secretly i wish most trad climbs had a bolted anchor, but its certainly not required.
"The Mountains are my church and climbing is how I worship" - Tommy Caldwell
All good points. I clip what I want to clip and ignore or replace the old stuff. I did notice the pitons at Seneca look really rusty where they meet the rock. I'm all for bolt anchors to save the trees. webbing is only good for a couple years. It's all time bombs, that's why you inspect it and then test it before you unhook and rap.
Bolts are going to fail too at some point but they last alot longer than webbing.
Bolts are going to fail too at some point but they last alot longer than webbing.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
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anticlmber
- Posts: 3393
- Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 12:34 am
wordynot wrote:All good points. I clip what I want to clip and ignore or replace the old stuff. I did notice the pitons at Seneca look really rusty where they meet the rock. I'm all for bolt anchors to save the trees. webbing is only good for a couple years. It's all time bombs, that's why you inspect it and then test it before you unhook and rap.
Bolts are going to fail too at some point but they last alot longer than webbing.
so sayeth the shepard, so sayeth the flock!!!
amen
Like me on facebook but hate me in real life
Anti WTF? Why so agreeable? Maybe I should step in.anticlmber wrote:wordynot wrote:All good points. I clip what I want to clip and ignore or replace the old stuff. I did notice the pitons at Seneca look really rusty where they meet the rock. I'm all for bolt anchors to save the trees. webbing is only good for a couple years. It's all time bombs, that's why you inspect it and then test it before you unhook and rap.
Bolts are going to fail too at some point but they last alot longer than webbing.
so sayeth the shepard, so sayeth the flock!!!
amen
Your worried about the old pitons at Seneca? It is the rock that is shit.
Bolts will never fail.
One of us has to be a jackass.