Page 2 of 3

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 12:52 pm
by pigsteak
so is the failure number still way above what force climbers generate in a fall?

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 1:05 pm
by ahab
he hasn't posted the numbers that the new ones failed at, but the 2 that started this whole thing were something like:

red alien - failed @ 5kN, rated to 12kN
purple alien - failed @ 11kN, rated to 15kN

i think the new ones did a little better.
anyone on here ever generated that kind of force on a victory whip? :lol:

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 1:25 pm
by pigsteak
lol..like trad climbers ever fall to start with.....

come to think of it, trad climbers tend to fall "about 6 inches" at the most onto their gear, so maybe this is an important test. the short falls are the hardest on gear. are they gong to do a test with what happens when a trad climber gently eases back on a piece and says "take', hoping to god the piece doesn't blow from their inept placement? methinks that is a more likley scenario than a live whipper on gear.

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 1:34 pm
by ahab
pigsteak wrote:lol..like I ever fall when climbing trad to start with.....

come to think of it, I tend to fall "about 6 inches" at the most onto my gear, so maybe this is an important test. the short falls are the hardest on gear. are they gong to do a test with what happens when I gently ease back on a piece and says "take', hoping to god the piece doesn't blow from my inept placement? methinks that is a more likley scenario than a live whipper on gear b/c trad climbing scares the shit outta me and there's no way i would put myself in a position where i could possibly fall more than 6 inches.
fixed that for ya.

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 1:38 pm
by pigsteak
lol..that would be true for two reasons. I am not a trad climber...only getting in 2-4 pitches a day is way too boring. And my gear is only used to grid bolt.

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 2:44 pm
by krampus
pigsteak wrote:lol..like trad climbers ever fall to start with....
this is true only for those who use trad climbing as a form of retirment. The rest of us let those nuts hang.

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 7:40 pm
by pigsteak
krampus wrote:
pigsteak wrote:lol..like trad climbers ever fall to start with....
this is true only for those who use trad climbing as a form of retirment. The rest of us let those nuts hang.
riiiight..you keep telling yourself that.... :wink:

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 8:05 pm
by bcombs
pigsteak wrote:
krampus wrote:
pigsteak wrote:lol..like trad climbers ever fall to start with....
this is true only for those who use trad climbing as a form of retirment. The rest of us let those nuts hang.
riiiight..you keep telling yourself that.... :wink:
Yes sir... I saw Kramp at the top of Bedtime for Bonzo over the weekend:

No NSFW stuff outside of the suck forum, or that route in the online guide.

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 10:18 pm
by Yasmeen
ahab wrote:red alien - failed @ 5kN, rated to 12kN
purple alien - failed @ 11kN, rated to 15kN
I heard some guy freaking out over this at the NRR. I almost mentioned that I'd taken numerous falls on the blue and green Aliens earlier that day, but figured I'd just let him continue to live in fear. Some people will continue to trust them, some won't.

Posted: Thu May 28, 2009 3:08 am
by 512OW
The real question is this:

Why does it even matter in this forum? None of you pussies ever fall on your gear.