RRC Archives

Isn't that anchor in the roof? seems like a good place to be replaced by a glue in and chain that's a little less directional.

I think the anchor is pretty much bombproof... Much better than most other anchors I've seen. Anyways, if you fall on the first pitch you shouldn't even try the second.

cliftongifford wrote:I think the anchor is pretty much bombproof... Much better than most other anchors I've seen. Anyways, if you fall on the first pitch you shouldn't even try the second.

I agree. There are so many more climbs in the gorge proper that have sketchy anchors. Much better to spend energy on those than an anchor that, although not ideal, is in great shape.

hmmm, should we bring up funk rock again

Manky anchors are part of the trad experience.

Kramp, while we are out there bolting, we can chainsaw out all of the fire and ice storm damage.

sounds good, that place could really use it. We just need a lookout some walkie talkies and a drill, and maybe some experience

i just climbed it today. The chain just didn't look right so I left a quickdraw on the top bolt that seemed to to load both the top bolt and the bottom rap ring more evenly when I came down.

it may not have been right, but i felt a hell of a lot better coming down.

Someone will probably steel it tomorrow. It was a Kong Bonatti cheapy.
Enjoy.

I've still got those massive chains rolling around in the back of my Jeep. Guess I could donate them back this fall.

I did this route a couple years ago. I don't really remember the anchor all that well (the route, in fall colors, was Awesome, and I remember that alright). We got down O.K, obviously. But I think I backed up the anchor for my second and went down on what was there. I know I didn't leave no pieces ner nuthin. Not that scary. Not equalized, as my poor memory serves. No big worries, I think. What was new looked good, and didn't pull out when I yarded on it.