RRC Archives

rhunt wrote:Your love for climbing should have you up at 5am...

MY love for climbing, or YOURS?

rhunt wrote:For me, I can only climb on the weekends...

right. you, not me.

rhunt wrote:I think most people who have the discipline the train hard and thus climb hard also take the time to plan things out well. At least that's my experience being around climber who are constantly push their limit.

you speak as if this is (or should be) the goal of all that climb. it's not.

rhunt wrote:

ahab wrote:i have to get up at 6:30 to go to work. climbing should be anything but like work.

This is my favorite lame-ass excuse why people refuse to get up early to climb. Your love for climbing should have you up at 5am because you only have two days to climb and all week to go to that job you hate. For me, I can only climb on the weekends, that's 48 hours to climb, sleep and drive, what am I going to spend most of my time doing?

I think most people who have the discipline the train hard and thus climb hard also take the time to plan things out well. At least that's my experience being around climber who are constantly push their limit.

gotta remember rhunt, rarely are "climbers" athletes. climbing for many is merely an excuse to escape reality. they dream of sending harder grades, but refuse to put in the training, discipline, and yes, planning to make it happen. don't rain on their fantasy world of being REAL climbers.

getting drunk with brahs, spraying at miggies, climbing a max of 4-6 pitches a day..they accomplish any or all of these, and they actually call themsleves climbers. hah.

don't you guys have some injuries to nurse or something?

Have y'all not noticed the dew point issue at the Red? Why would you get up early to go climb in moist, foggy, humid conditions? Actually, go ahead and climb early. Then, when I get to the cliff later inthe morning, you will not be flailing on the routes that I want to get on!

Nice advice, but I have found that having to precise of an agenda tends to be tricky, esp. if you are a weekend climber trying to work on a popular route. If you get yourself all psyched up on Tuesday to get 4 burns on gung ho Saturday, and you show up and there are like 6 other people working that route and the cliff is packed, then you will be disappointed. But, if you just go out with the thought of climbing some cool 12's, then you will probably find some cool stuff to do. And, with the spring weather, if you get all excited about a crag, then it pours rain the night before, you will not be as content with hitting a rainy day crag.

Best advise is to focus on your effort, rather then the details - just try hard some days, and some days take it easy, and you will do just fine.

I am with you steepme...the Red has it own rock weather according to the season of the year. I drive long hours to get there and want to get my sleep in the morning so I can have a good day the next day. I warm up fairly quickly and by the time I get there most of the early risers are out of the way on the warm ups. The humidity (most of the time) is best at the Red from 1 PM to 6 PM and I want to be warmed up to hit the best humidity. Never would I take 2 hours to figure out a climb...I think if you need two hours to figure out the moves in a climb you need to see what you have done before just to make sure you are not missing a step on your climbing progression (like jumping from climbing 12b to a 13b). How can you avoid not having to take a turns when there are other 5 people working on the same climb...you just take it with stride and remember that after all climbing is just for FUN!!!!

tutugirl wrote:I warm up fairly quickly and by the time I get there most of the early risers are out of the way on the warm ups.

zactly.

pigsteak wrote:getting drunk with brahs, spraying at miggies, climbing a max of 4-6 pitches a day..they accomplish any or all of these, and they actually call themsleves climbers. hah.

that sounds like my typical climbing day, minus the miggy spray.
changed my sig just for you guys. way to leach all the fun out of climbing.

I think it really depends on whether you climb for fun, or climb to send hard stuff.

ahad - I didn't mean to apply that you are me BUT clearly the original post is about climbers who are trying to climb hard and that is what I am talking about. Yet I must admit that part of my post was a rant of the frustration I use to have with the crew i use to climb with. I sat around many many mornings drinking coffee waiting for my partners to get up. There were many times where Pigsteak would come pick me up and my camp before anyone I was with even woke up.

steep4me has a really good point about the dewpoint and that very real fact that if you wait until about 11am you shouldn't have to wait in line for a warm up or your project.

Now back my nursing my injuries and dreaming of the old-n-days...