RRC Archives

jordancolburn wrote:

Shamis wrote: EDIT2: you have no gri-gris.

AHHHH!!!!!! it'd be too much to handle, i'd probably just jump.

its worth considering. It happened to me once. I had no solution figured out at the time, but luckily there were some people sleeping on a ledge 200 feet up and after 2 hours of yelling they heard us.

I've since then come up with some solutions, but they are pretty messy, would be interested to hear if anybody has an elegant solution to the problem.

jump.

krampus wrote:call shotgun on the big spoon

Too funny, but Ale-8 burns when it comes out your nose..... thanks Kramp...

If possible walk away from the wall and try to pull. Often this makes an easy fix. Of course if you're on a ledge that may not be feasible (but would be a funny story).

I've never had to reascend a rope to free it. I've always been able to get a rope unstuck from the ground.

The other aspect of this is pre-emptive planning. Set up your rope so it doesn't get stuck in the first place. Extend TR anchors, rappel anchors when necessary and my best trick is this: I set up the rope, let one person rap and then do a "test pull" to see if the rope is going to pull from the ground/ledge. If its problematic I can fix it while still at the top.

Like I said, I've never had to reascend a rope/route to unstick a rope.

Ascentionist wrote:If possible walk away from the wall and try to pull. Often this makes an easy fix. Of course if you're on a ledge that may not be feasible (but would be a funny story).

I've never had to reascend a rope to free it. I've always been able to get a rope unstuck from the ground.

The other aspect of this is pre-emptive planning. Set up your rope so it doesn't get stuck in the first place. Extend TR anchors, rappel anchors when necessary and my best trick is this: I set up the rope, let one person rap and then do a "test pull" to see if the rope is going to pull from the ground/ledge. If its problematic I can fix it while still at the top.

Like I said, I've never had to reascend a rope/route to unstick a rope.

Did the walk away from the wall on Bedtime for Bonzo after stupidly letting the rope get caught on p2.

And i'll use the test pull method from now on, would've avoided all our problems, after climbing back up, i realized I could've cleaned just one piece and fixed most of the dragging/sticking.

If you use a reverso or ATC guide you can put it in plaquette mode and ascend to where the rope is stuck. If you rig this extended with a back-up then all you have to do is flip it over to descend. Simple, safe.

What crack were you on?

I was pulling a rope after cleaning the anchors and rapping down. As the tail of the rope was getting close to the ring, it looped around itself and pulled tight. The route was 85' high so there was not enough rope to secure it at the bottom and lead it up again. Fortunately, we had another rope and lead the route a second time.

Anyone ever have this happen to them?

GWG wrote:Anyone ever have this happen to them?

i have a sterling that has a self-knot tying tendency. was pulling it after rapping from the underling and right when it should have dropped, it just stopped. i tugged a little harder...stuck. we didn't have another rope and if you've climbed the underling you know how feasible it would be to try to climb it on the other end of the stuck rope. so i literally started climbing, hand over hand, up the rope in a last ditch effort to free it. i got about 2 ft off the ground and the rope finally cut loose. it had flipped itself into an overhand about 3 ft from the tail. luckily, there are biners on the anchors, not quicklinks so when i weighted the rope it popped through.
so the moral of story is...don't buy self-tying ropes.

ahab wrote: so the moral of story is...don't buy self-tying ropes.

But what if they become self-tying after you buy them.

Darn sneaky ropes!