RRC Archives

seldom get to climb 2 days in a row but it always seems a little better second day; third day is another story

if you are going down for the weekend and only have 1.5-2 days to climb, you're just going to have to do the best you can to get the most out of both days.

for routes second day on seems to be my peak. the first day after a rest day i usually feel stiff and lazy. for bouldering (i know you all didnt ask and there is not bouldering in KY) first day still feels bad but 2nd and 3rd days are so good if skin is not an issue.

Training Inside 4 consective days in a row:
Day 1 Solid good workout quick recovery between sets.
Day 2 Longer to warmup, Good to solid, but towards the end recovery is more difficult.
Day 3 Skin/hand pain noticeable. Muscle fatigue sets in very quickly. Recovery limited.
Day 4 Skin sore, Fingers ache limited hand strength, very little power or endurance. Little recovery possible.

Outside - I suck but proably more productive the second day if nothing was injuried the first.

I regularly climb better the second day on (inside, outside, routes or bouldering).
Everything I have read on the subject would suggest that this is not possible. Maybe physically I am weaker, but I "perform" better day two.

depends on what I'm doing.

If I'm doing steep overhanging stufff, then on the 2nd day I will suck because my arms won't recover properly, but if I'm doing slap/vertical stuff then I often climb better the second day because I'm more bendy.

I'm very confused. Climbing for "performance" and "training" are two entirely different things, with distinctly different outcomes.

2nd day I "train" a little weaker, but since I always train to failure, there is no "worse".

2nd day I "climb for performance" about the same or better. Rarely worse, unless I was at the Darkside the first day and destroyed my skin.

Haha... 512OW, I added the climbing "hard" outside element because people would start the "I only climb for fun, I don't train" crap.... What I was really after was training two days in a row or more.

2nd day I "train" a little weaker, but since I always train to failure, there is no "worse".

Exactly, the only difference for me between day 1 & 2 is that failure comes more quickly. What is interesting though is that the point between start and failure on day 2 actually feels stronger compared to day 1. So if you gauge it that way, performance increases for me on day 2. Day 3 & 4 is usually crap. Day 4 is the gym day (most times) and so it's harder to gauge performance since the environment changed, but I sure feel crappy. Friday is rest for the weekend.

Yeah. I almost never train 2 days in a row. I usually either:

Train 3 (Tuesday, Thursday, Sunday)
Train 2, Climb or "train" performance in the gym 1 or 2 (Tues, Thurs), (Sat, Sun)
Train 1, Climb 3 (Tues.) (Fri, Sat, Sun)

I rarely take rest days. I find that after 2 weeks or so I begin to fatigue earlier in the day. I try to get 2 to 4 rest days in a row (usually on transit days). I find that after this rest period I always come back stronger. I have trained my body for the endurance of many days of climbing in a row. Granted not all days are hard days. I do find that I get a rest on my legs when I sport climb; and a rest on my arms when I go long.