What sport routes at the Red require a 70 meter rope?

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pawilkes
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Post by pawilkes »

i think you need one for Are these Pies Fresh if you do the whole thing, definately need one for Gameboy or you can clip in direct at a bolt and have the belayer tie two ropes together and continue to lower, thats how we did it.
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ynot
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Post by ynot »

There are a bunch of trad routes that a 60 isn't long enough. Blood on the nuts and Slimy Creatures come to mind.
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Basta916
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Post by Basta916 »

pawilkes wrote:i think you need one for Are these Pies Fresh if you do the whole thing, definately need one for Gameboy or you can clip in direct at a bolt and have the belayer tie two ropes together and continue to lower, thats how we did it.
No you don't need anything longer than 60m on " Pies", actually you will have plenty extra.
"Game boy" is different story.
john e aragon
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Post by john e aragon »

Party Time (the best damn 7 in the world)
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Andrew
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Post by Andrew »

you should get out of ky more
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bcombs
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Post by bcombs »

Andrew doesn't need a 70m because his feet can still reach the ground if he just stretches out a bit. :lol:
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Josephine
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Post by Josephine »

if you search in the online guide advanced search you can search by route length.
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Redpoint
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Post by Redpoint »

Well thanks for all of the information everybody, and I sure am mad about not being able to climb that 7. Well I do have a 30 foot piece of dynamic rope I got at quest. I guess I would have to be lowered to the first bolt, go indirect to it, and then have my belayer attach the 30 foot piece(with a double fisherman's knot) and then switch the belay device from the 60 meter piece of rope to the 30 foot piece, and finish being lowered, but geez what a hassle. I don't think I will feel too comfortable going indirect to just one bolt, even though it would only be 15 feet off of the ground. Does anyone know a better way to this other than what I just mentioned?



woodchuck008 wrote:After a few dozen falls on one end, you can unravel the other half and climb on that for the next 6 months.. Plus my long 70M allows me to sit in the car and belay in comfort from parking lots.
A tip for you:

Mammut and every book I have read on climbing says that after someone has taken one or more lead falls, then finished the climb and has been lowered, to switch sides of the rope for the next climb to let the kernmantle core recover which prolongs the lifespan of the rope.

Mammut also suggests going in direct to a bolt after you take a lead fall to let the rope recover, and this will also help prolong the lifespan of the rope. They also mention that just hangdogging on a dynamic rope is bad for it, and that includes while toproping.
Last edited by Redpoint on Wed Feb 11, 2009 3:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
woodchuck008
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Post by woodchuck008 »

Yes, good Mammut facts there, which I was sort of hinting at. It's good to rotate ends of your rope anyway, even after good climbs, no falls, but lowers were done for many routes. Get it all evenly used and stretched. Good for core/sheath health.
As for that 30 ft rope, it sounds like a great way to do sport multi pitch; 2 or 3 bolts = one pitch. Hanging belay, and on to the next pitch. Quite a few raps needed and alot of bail biners though....
DHB
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Post by DHB »

Just so we're clear, it's in direct, not "indirect". As in, you clip DIRECTly INto the bolt.

Saying that you "go indirect" makes no sense.

[/grammarpolice]
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