RRC Archives

You could combine the sport and trad clinics to one.... since it's all the same anyway.

A sport clinic that was more specific might be nice, instead of intermediat sport, you could have a clinic on sport climbing efficiency, or how to work a route. Or a clinic on onsight ability. I guess these could be trad clinics also.

Training would also be a good one.

To be serious though... Every trad clinic that I have attended (mind you it's only 3) has gone like this...

1) Pro guy solo's the routes and sets TR's.
2) Lot's of talk and poor demo's of movement.
3) Attendee's flail on cracks for an hour.
4) Go home

It would be nice to split "trad" into two clinics... Movement, and gear.

If you want to TR a crack because you only climb sport, don't own a rack, and want to see what it's like... attend the movement clinic.

If you own gear, haven't had the luck of having a mentor, and what to get real knowledge about placements instead of re-reading your stack of books... attend the gear clinic.

There typically isn't enough time to do both, so make the attendee make the decision.

Or, just send em out to clip bolts with Odub... where he'll fracture their ego's and send them home crying to mama.

Now we are getting somewhere. The idea of more specifically focussed clinics has been discussed. Where we need input is what specific areas people are interested in?

To address Brad's experience you have to remember that sponsored athletes are not "teaching pros". That is not part of their regular gig. It is on us, the RRGCC, to provide the athletes with an outline of what we expect and want them to do.

I would like to see an intermediate group that is both sport and trad (without the placement of gear). I like climbing cracks and they are generally not bolted. Beginner clinics spend too much time on the basics of safety, which I already know (I'd like to spend more time on the rock learning how to improve my techinique), and advanced is beyond my capabilities. I'm not at a level that I am comfortable with being responsible for gear placement.

rollo - you're certainly not the only person who's signed up for a clinic based on who's teaching it. reminds me of my sudden illness that happened to coincide with the Lynn Hill trad clinic.

kirker - i think that's a good idea. will have to consider that one for sure.

jay - we will most likely offer a photo clinic. good to be reminded of it.

brad & ddclimbs - that's a great idea to divide trad based on movement/gear

here are some more suggestions: (borrowed heavily from the clinics offered by Red Rock Rendezvous)

fall safely - learn how to fall safely and belaying a falling climber (beg/int sport)
footwork and techniques - work on different types of foot placements, movement & resting efficiently (int sport)
redpointing - how to picking your project, setting goals on your project, how to stay psyched and follow through with your project (int sport)
crack climbing - hand, foot techniques how to read a route where it’s best to rest and how to tape your hands (beg/int trad - assumes knowledge of placing pro - movement only)
place like a pro - how to select a rack for a climb, place efficently, assess the reliability of rock/placement (beg/int trad)
beginner movement - basics of footwork and techniques for sport climbing (beg sport)
training to climb - covers nutrition, cross training techniques, how to stay in shape when away from a climbing wall for an extended period of time, etc. (all climbers)

as far as clinics for advanced climbers - what would you like (read: what clinic(s) would you be willing to pay for). maybe offwidth techniques? aid climbing? speed climbing? i'm really not sure what to even suggest since the "advanced climbers" i know aren't the type of climber that would be interested in a clinic.

obviously we can't offer EVERYTHING - but maybe those are some more specific options. what do you like/not like?

Andrew wrote:A sport clinic that was more specific might be nice, instead of intermediat sport, you could have a clinic on sport climbing efficiency, or how to work a route. Or a clinic on onsight ability. I guess these could be trad clinics also.

Training would also be a good one.

Agree with these. Great idea to learn how to scope out the route when you have no beta on it at all.
The self rescue thing is good too. I'm guessing this pertains to how to escape/retreat from up high on a route, and not how to get your half mangled body back to the roadside.

I'd happily give an onsight/efficiency clinic.

Or a trad clinic, as long as woodchuck attends.

Well thanks, I could use the refresher course. Last year at Torrent with Tommy and Emily was a ton of fun, so I hope to be back for next year.

512OW wrote:I'd happily give an onsight/efficiency clinic.

Or a trad clinic, as long as woodchuck attends.

woodchuck008 wrote:Well thanks, I could use the refresher course. Last year at Torrent with Tommy and Emily was a ton of fun, so I hope to be back for next year.

Could you please not schedule this for the same time as the photography clinic?

I wanna be there to see who strangles whom with a cordalette!