mind games
I just had a long conversation about this yesterday. Trog, you were talking about Trad, which is a whole other level of confidence because you have to have complete trust in the gear that you placed. Work towards having as much confidence in a bomber cam as you do a bolt. So, I'll limit my response to clipping bolts.
I know that alot of people say "take practice falls", and if you can actually do it, it's great. But if your gripped with fear about falling trying to push yourself to take practice falls might result in overload and push you further away from the goal.
One thing I have seen work for at least one person is breaking the route down into little sections and giving yourself metal victories that help to build confidence. People have a tendency to stand at the bottom of a route with 10 quickdraws racked up and all they can see is the mammoth task of climbing the entire route and placing / clipping all 10 draws. Instead, break it down somewhat similar to this and see if it helps:
1) Pick a route that is in the upper edge of your ability. So, if your toughest redpoint to date is say, 10d.. then pick a 10b to work with. Something new that you haven't been on before. Also try to pick something that is relatively straight forward. Not a route where "if you don't know the beta trick at the third it feels like 11b".
2) Asses the groundfall risk. What I mean by that is, figure out where (usually 2nd or 3rd) that groundfall is out of the equation. Say to yourself (or outloud if you want to look like a weirdo) , the third bolt is my safe point. I have to be focused and solid to there.
3) Climb to the 3rd and take. Then lower off or go bolt to bolt for the rest of the route.
4) Rest, review the moves from the ground and then choose a new goal. For example the 4th. Leave the ground knowing that you have to:
a) Be strong and focused to the third for safety
b) Push yourself to be focused to the fourth.
Once you get to the 4th, take and lower off. It's important not to get to the 4th and say "I made it and feel good, I'm going to keep going". That's not what this excercise is about. What happens if you keep going and the crux is between the 4th and 5th? You get pumped, gripped with fear, lose focus, fall or take, and the previous steps were a waste of time.
5) Add one more bolt to the progression until you redpoint. Keep in mind that the redpoint may not come today or the next trip, but eventually.
The whole point of the excercise isn't so much about enjoying climbing. You'll enjoy climbing alot more when you can relax and focus on the movement. This is about getting your head clear. Don't be down because no points were scored that day.
Just know your headed in a direction that is good for you.
Hopefully some of that helps. I'm sure the more experienced climbers will have rebuttal.
I know that alot of people say "take practice falls", and if you can actually do it, it's great. But if your gripped with fear about falling trying to push yourself to take practice falls might result in overload and push you further away from the goal.
One thing I have seen work for at least one person is breaking the route down into little sections and giving yourself metal victories that help to build confidence. People have a tendency to stand at the bottom of a route with 10 quickdraws racked up and all they can see is the mammoth task of climbing the entire route and placing / clipping all 10 draws. Instead, break it down somewhat similar to this and see if it helps:
1) Pick a route that is in the upper edge of your ability. So, if your toughest redpoint to date is say, 10d.. then pick a 10b to work with. Something new that you haven't been on before. Also try to pick something that is relatively straight forward. Not a route where "if you don't know the beta trick at the third it feels like 11b".
2) Asses the groundfall risk. What I mean by that is, figure out where (usually 2nd or 3rd) that groundfall is out of the equation. Say to yourself (or outloud if you want to look like a weirdo) , the third bolt is my safe point. I have to be focused and solid to there.
3) Climb to the 3rd and take. Then lower off or go bolt to bolt for the rest of the route.
4) Rest, review the moves from the ground and then choose a new goal. For example the 4th. Leave the ground knowing that you have to:
a) Be strong and focused to the third for safety
b) Push yourself to be focused to the fourth.
Once you get to the 4th, take and lower off. It's important not to get to the 4th and say "I made it and feel good, I'm going to keep going". That's not what this excercise is about. What happens if you keep going and the crux is between the 4th and 5th? You get pumped, gripped with fear, lose focus, fall or take, and the previous steps were a waste of time.
5) Add one more bolt to the progression until you redpoint. Keep in mind that the redpoint may not come today or the next trip, but eventually.
The whole point of the excercise isn't so much about enjoying climbing. You'll enjoy climbing alot more when you can relax and focus on the movement. This is about getting your head clear. Don't be down because no points were scored that day.
Just know your headed in a direction that is good for you.Hopefully some of that helps. I'm sure the more experienced climbers will have rebuttal.
Work up to the practice fall. Try falling 1 ft first, then 2 ft. Think about not giving up when falling. Be mindful all the time of your body position and try to land like a cat against the wall. Keep you head while falling. There is also no reason you can't practice fall on gear. You can back the gear up with a top rope to get over your questions about placement.bcombs wrote:I know that a lot of people say "take practice falls", and if you can actually do it, it's great. But if your gripped with fear about falling trying to push yourself to take practice falls might result in overload and push you further away from the goal.
As far as trad climbing goes, look at it like this:
You KNOW that cams hold. You KNOW that stoppers hold. Forget about trusting the gear, and learn to trust yourself. The idea of trusting your gear is silly at best. Its an inanimate object that WILL do its job in nearly every case if YOU used it correctly.
You KNOW that cams hold. You KNOW that stoppers hold. Forget about trusting the gear, and learn to trust yourself. The idea of trusting your gear is silly at best. Its an inanimate object that WILL do its job in nearly every case if YOU used it correctly.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
Just curious if you've ever had a peice blow or a draw unclip itself when you've climbed past it knowing it's bomber? And how you dealt with it.512OW wrote:As far as trad climbing goes, look at it like this:
You KNOW that cams hold. You KNOW that stoppers hold. Forget about trusting the gear, and learn to trust yourself. The idea of trusting your gear is silly at best. Its an inanimate object that WILL do its job in nearly every case if YOU used it correctly.
I've had one piece blow, and I didn't place it. I didn't even look at it, just climbed past like a dumbass. I fell above, it didn't even slow me down, and I landed standing in front of my belayer, rope stretch sitting me down softly. BUT... I didn't place it. I trust myself implicitly. If I'm ever unsure about a placement, and feel as if there is a chance I'll fall before my next one, I'm not too shy to equalize a few pieces before I commit. I've seen alot of shady placements hold... so I know that the gear will do its job if I give it half a chance.
I tried to physically catch an experienced 5.12 trad climber I was belaying, and had ripped ALL of his gear. Again, I didn't place it, and it didn't negatively affect my trust in my own gear.
I believe that if one of my placements ever does blow (I've had aid placements blow, but thats a whole nother animal), I'll be able to chalk it up to user error. Theres always the very slight chance it will be otherwise, but I'm not out there to worry about slight chances...
I tried to physically catch an experienced 5.12 trad climber I was belaying, and had ripped ALL of his gear. Again, I didn't place it, and it didn't negatively affect my trust in my own gear.
I believe that if one of my placements ever does blow (I've had aid placements blow, but thats a whole nother animal), I'll be able to chalk it up to user error. Theres always the very slight chance it will be otherwise, but I'm not out there to worry about slight chances...
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
This is probably the best advice on here so far. Although, I know one person who said that it took him year to recover from Arno's class because it messed him up so much.Meadows wrote:FYI: Arno Ilgner has a forum on RC.com for threads like these. It's not to say that you can't learn something here, but I know he's quite revered for helping people through fear issues.
One thing about those kinds of classes is they tend to teach strategy and not everyone knows how to benefit from that. The strategy is the plan, the tactics comprise the plan. Sometimes people just need the tactics to get started. Sometimes it's just the basics.