RRC Archives

cliffJunkie wrote:hey redpoint thanks for your help. little fyi, my smartass remark was not directied toward you, but rather toward pigsteak for his enlightened initial response.

pigsteak wrote:if you have to ask, don't do it.

Pigsteak has only been climbing for about a month now - dont listen to him either.

if you are not 100% clear on what to do after reading redpoints soliloquy, then you must be an idiot. Truth is, as long as you are not a complete douche, you could probably ask someone to catch you. Of course then you wouldn't be ale to spray about your bad ass solo on here, and loose all the credibility you gained by starting this post.

krampus wrote:if you are not 100% clear on what to do after reading redpoints soliloquy, then you must be an idiot. Truth is, as long as you are not a complete douche, you could probably ask someone to catch you. Of course then you wouldn't be ale to spray about your bad ass solo on here, and loose all the credibility you gained by starting this post.

ive never tried it but i think i understand how to solo now - im gonna go out n solo tomorrow - just remember to tie those loops n all. itll be fun! i think ill start on snake or party time.

id invite krampus with me but then t would be a duo not a solo so u cant come.

cliffJunkie wrote:do people rope-solo sport routes in the red? if so, how do you build the anchors?

In the red I usually just use a sling or slings around a tree. The anchor can be completely angled relative to the first piece and it doesn't matter so you can use a tree pretty far away. If it's a big tree you can just tie a slip knot around the tree with a double overhand on the main line instead of using slings. There are a lot of other options but these are probably what I've done mostly.

The only reason I don't like the slip knots is because it produces a bad angle. Remember the 60 degrees rule, well using a slip knot will make something close to 100 degrees, and so it will be creating allot more stress on your webbing. That is why the wrap 3 is so great, once you wrap the sling around a tree 3 times, make sure there is still enough slack so that when you pull on the webbing, it creates an angle of 60 degrees or less, and make sure you pull on the wrap that doesn't add any tension to your knot(another benefit of a wrap 3). And like I said before, a wrap 3 done properly won't slide up or down the tree nomatter what angle you pull on it.

I am aware that trad climbers sling stuff on route with slipknots, but when rigging to a tree it is just upping the risk. Just buy 15 or 20 feet of webbing for 30 cents a foot and do a wrap 3 instead, if you plan on soloing allot that is.

i probably rope-soloed 50 or so routes this year in the red but i stick with stuff thats pretty easy for me, i don't think i've ever fallen while leading. if there is a tree available, i'll use it otherwise i'll tie a knot and clip it into the first bolt and may back it up by doing the same at the second. i use an um-modified grigri for leading. i really like rope-soloing, there's something nice about being out there by yourself but it can be a bit scary cause if something happens, no ones around to help you.

Charlie Porter used to aid solo on Baffin Island- the dude was breakin ground in the seventies that wankers these days want no part of...

I apologize for my smart ass remark cliffjunkie. I promise to be a more considerate flamer in 2009.

now, if you have done sick solo's of trad an sport other places, please share with us how you built your anchors there..I am guessing it'd pretty much work here too. but I could be wrong, since as KD stated, I just bought my first shiny ovals at the end of November 08.

pigsteak wrote:now, if you have done sick solo's of trad an sport other places, please share with us how you built your anchors there.....

No, please don't.