tutugirl wrote:Two pairs of the same kind of shoes, one pair broken in and a newer pair I am breaking in on the warm ups...
This is what I've recently adapted as doing. Then by the time the other pair is wearing out, you have another pair that already fits comfortably. It's a nice cycle
One pair that I can wear without crying and one that I use on steep redpoint goes. (while crying, of course)
The most evil thing at the Red is having to climb the slabby ramp at the Darkside (in painful steep-climbing shoes) to get to the painful steep climbing above! Those routes really require two pairs of shoes.
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.
so do people really get out of their car, and have no idea if it is a sport or trad day? and do people really do both in the same day? I mean, yeah, I might clip a few bolts while at a trad crag, but I sure don't need my "sending" sport shoes, since the day is all about trad, and not projecting a sport line....
my hardest send to this date has been in my crappies comfiest pair of shoes I have ever owned. I seriously doubt that I changing shoe will bump me up a notch. comfort and price are what I am about. And yes piggy, sometimes I do jump on hard sport on a trad day, its not like we have big wall day long climbs at the red that take up so much time that I must choose one or the other.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
