RRC Archives

GWG wrote:I don't know what it's called but I take my sling, attach to biners to it, pass one biner through the other and then clip the sling again. It shortens it to the length of a regular draw. If I need it to be longer, I just open the biner and release 2 of the 3 loops of the sling.

yeah, I do the same thing. I try to go about 50% draws, and 50% long slings doubled up as you describe. I also don't remember what its called though.

come on shamis, when is the last time you trad climbed? once in the past 3 years?

you lose your "expert license" after 12 months of inactivity.

I would've waited for a trad master like yourself to answer, but I figured you'd be too busy trolling and spraying.

Shamis wrote:I also don't remember what its called though.

The Chris Chaney method.

No seriously, I'm not sure what it's called. I do that too, well, I did, back when I still climbed. But all my slings are done up like that in my closet right now.

It makes the slings 1/3 as long as opposed to half as long, thus shortening them enough to keep from wrapping around your skinny sporto legs.

Shamis wrote:I would've waited for a trad master like yourself to answer, but I figured you'd be too busy trolling and spraying.

dude, even I know my limits...

if OW and SCIN ain't throwing out chunks of wisdom on REAL trad climbing, I ain't listening.

Shamis wrote: I also don't remember what its called though.

I have heard it called an alpine draw or an alpine quickdraw.

Since most cams now come with a presewn sling, they are in use. Additional length used due to route needs. With nuts, a short runner is good to keep rope drag from removing the nut. Length just adds to fall distance, so I try to keep them less than 8 inches if possible. Big slings around big roofs for sure.

I agree with all the above, i use slings of all sizes, route dictates length. Ive also seen someone go ahead and attach a draw/sling to their cams ,as they clip their gear to their harness gear loops and not a gear sling. They said it was the new thing. Im old school so I use draws and use a gear sling. So my question is do you wear your rack around your waist or around your neck?

elcapitan1974 wrote:I agree with all the above, i use slings of all sizes, route dictates length. Ive also seen someone go ahead and attach a draw/sling to their cams ,as they clip their gear to their harness gear loops and not a gear sling. They said it was the new thing. Im old school so I use draws and use a gear sling. So my question is do you wear your rack around your waist or around your neck?

I like to put normal cams + draws/slings on the harness, with smaller gear like nuts/tricams/tcu's on the gear sling. If I put too many cams on a gear sling I feel encumbered. I used to do it all on a sling, but that was when I only had like 3 cams...

I'm exactlly the opposite. I feel like a lardass with big giant cams on my harness. Use both gearsling and harness to rack up for trad. Long slings around the neck usually, short ones on back of harness, and small cams or nuts there too. Larger stuff can be moved around easier on the gear sling as needed, even remove the whole sling if awkward for a move. Depends on route, and if you are doing real 'trad where pitches are a minimum of 150 ft. When was the last time you saw that distance on a sport climb ?