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If I have good gear below me with which I used to get up there I stay on belay and trust my lead gear. I tie in direct to the anchor with a sling and try to break the anchor by shock loading it with as much force as my waist can handle. Sometimes I might put in some back up pieces before I bounce, use a tree etc. I also replace webbing fairly often.

Crankmas wrote:michaelarmand- what route at Pebble are you referring to?

Versatile Universe 5.10d **** (M), but it really isn't a mixed route anymore.

And I'm not suggesting that webbing can't be safe - it definitely is if there is a backup and it is replaced often enough. But tragically we know this isn't always the case...

webbing can be plenty safe, and every trad climber should carry some along with rap rings or quick links and a knife and plan to rebuild rap station anchors. That said, I know I am guilty of having rappelled off of some manky-ass web nests in the past. Not because I wasn't prepared, but because I thought it was "good enough." Never again.

pkananen wrote:It is unlikely that we will be able to systematically put in bolt anchors on the FS crags.

Have some patience and faith. When LAC becomes finalized, placement of new fixed anchors should be allowed with proper FS authorization, except of course, in the Clifty Wilderness Area. Since the subject of developing "secret crags" came up in another thread I would just put forth a friendly reminder that no new fixed anchors are allowed in Daniel Boone National Forest w/o prior FS authorization. That includes areas of the Southern Region adjacent to the PMRP.

Speaking of all this, we need to get that fixed [very worn] biner off the anchors of Buddha Hole. People are still lowering off it and I'm certain that since the clip is a long reach, they are not inspecting it.

steph, i will make sure allah sees this. he fixed up supa-fly, and had plans to do blue-eyed as well (if he has not already). i am sure he would take a look at buddha as well.

I lowered from one to many shitty looking anchors.

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtop ... 94&start=0

But not since then. Be careful, bounce testing is not full proof.

I should also mention that I had the webbing on a fixed quickdraw fail on me earlier this year. The second fixed draw on beer belly. It had no visible damage from the front, but was shredded on the back.

cut the tat, replace it with new.

start carrying a knife and webbing.

anticlmber wrote:cut the tat, replace it with new.

start carrying a knife and webbing.

A steel link helps too... It's come in handy for me.

If you forget any of that stuff, backup the anchor point/rap ring and put the fattest person on rap/lower with as much gear as possible. Bounce test. If the last person down feels comfortable with the original gear, then take off the backup and go. If they don't, leave the backup. No questions asked.

I'm open to criticism/suggestions about this...

I think the most important thing is to remember that it is WELL WORTH leaving behind a piece of gear, or a draw or a biner if it means you'll make it to the ground alive.