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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:46 pm
by Wes
Heh, as one of the very first people to see that section of wall, well before the routes were there, I can tell you the the base of amarillo sunset was nettle hell at one time. Bob and Ryan sure had a nice time laughing at my misfortune.

Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:47 pm
by der uber
pigsteak wrote:der uber..is the base of amarillo sunset a good or bad base to you. it is a solid rock base and flat, BUT if you fall without the first bolt clipped, you are toast.
regardless of the base, it's on of the best lines I have been on in recent memory.

yeah, there's the ledge thing, and no you wouldn't want to fall, but I think it was real easy off the ground so you have that going for you.

Technically, I'm not complaining about the direct area below, as you say it is solid, flat, probably better than the average base. I should have stated more clearly when bringing it up that the immediate approach, both accessing the ledge from the shire as well as walking back up after climbing it, is a soft, muddy, slippery mess.

Furthermore, it doesn't take away from the route itself - it's well worth a slipp in that mud to get to it. But it was the several times of treking back and forth that made me think about some of the more interesting bases of climbs.

We're out in the wilderness, and I don't have any expectation that the areas should be like a well manicured golf course. It's the nature of the rock that a viable line may be located in such a spot, and just plays into the character of the climb, the crag, etc.

Re: Least hospitable base of a route

Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 2:08 pm
by charlie
der uber wrote:...... I was at the north 40 and the base of Amarillo Sunset got me thinking..
A prime target area at the Johnny and Alex trail day August 2nd. Everyone is welcome to come earn some sweat equity.

Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 2:14 pm
by krampus
Belaying Chriss on sex farm was my worst belaying experience

Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 3:24 pm
by goodguy
base of Night Moves & Battery Life & the great arch.

Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 7:43 pm
by Ascentionist
Private Duty Nurses. THe rhodo is so thick that you just can't keep the rope untangled. It's rare that rope drag occurs below the belayer's belay hand, but here it is a distinct reality.

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 1:48 pm
by steep4me
27 years --muddy, slanty with stick pile
Banshee (multi-pitch type belay on a ledge)
the two easy routes at Bronough Wall (11a/11c)-slanty dirt stance
Twinkie --ledge belay
Crucible at Midnight Surf (choss pile belay)
all the routes off of the ramp at Darkside (rope in the dirt, ramp in your face)
The 10c at Techtonic wall--muddy/slanty belay
Pogue Ethics--muddy/slanty belay
Belay spot if someone is toproping Tuna Town --down in the forest

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 3:11 pm
by DuppyC
Not many people would have a desire to climb it, but...

Tomfoolery at Phantasia is horrible. Throw in the climb being really poor and I think I picked the winner.

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 3:49 pm
by Danny
Any route I'm climbing with chew in my mouth. Belayers should wear a helmet or bring an umbrella.

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 4:14 pm
by DuppyC
Danny wrote:Any route I'm climbing with chew in my mouth. Belayers should wear a helmet or bring an umbrella.
I can attest to that.