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Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 12:55 am
by bcombs
I found Posse Whipped hard. In fact I couldn't do it. But you guys are welcome for the draws that hung on it for two months while I tried. :lol:

Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 10:30 am
by Andrew
iron lung
swine flew




Despite what people think, there is technique to climbing steep jug hauls and crimp ladders. The technique of efficiency, resting, and pace.

Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 12:47 pm
by anticlmber
hen-ry
yellow brick road
check your grip
lobster claw - still one of the best cruxes
spirit fingers
strevels gets in shape
fire and brimstone
bessie
head and shoulders - funky
i'll take sally/you take sue
all things considered
snake
into the light
overlord
stella
scrambled porn - if you want VARIETY get on this

it's all technique. i always feel like i don't send until i've learned whatever the route was supposed to teach me. it might be as simple as a foot place to as complex as overcoming myself. its all technique

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 5:20 pm
by steep4me
Sick Puppies 11c at Eastern Skybridge

Move to the last bolt on Mama Benson 12a now that the foot is gone!

Martin Rides Again 11c --Skybridge

Something Different 11b? at the Gallery

The Crucible at Midnight Surf (if you are short)

The 11c at Bronough Wall (far right)

Creature Feature--Fantasia (you have to heel hook!)

Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 6:54 pm
by Brentucky
pigsteak wrote:ah, barbed wire....hidden gem.
indeed, i was convinced this blank-looking thing was a 5.10 one day and decided to jump on it b/c it looked so sweet (no i wasn't high). stick clipped to the 1st, then the 2nd, then the 3rd. then my ass left a bail biner and came down! :lol:

i can't wait until the day when i can come back and give this beautiful thing a real run for the money! :)

Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:09 am
by rhunt
Is technique-intensive the same as beta-intensive? Or a route that is sequential?

Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 12:03 pm
by trog
512OW wrote:Which technique?

Slab: Love Shack
Face: All Things Considered
Stemming: Jack The Ripper
Offwidth: Country Lovin
All around crack: Inhibitor
Most varied techniques: Days Of Rage
So I'm confused...he mentions technique then references climb types.
Someone tell me, please, what is technique? Mental focus? Muscle control? Specific moves?
Gumby needs help.

Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 12:23 pm
by der uber
trog wrote:
512OW wrote:Which technique?

Slab: Love Shack
Face: All Things Considered
Stemming: Jack The Ripper
Offwidth: Country Lovin
All around crack: Inhibitor
Most varied techniques: Days Of Rage
So I'm confused...he mentions technique then references climb types.
Someone tell me, please, what is technique? Mental focus? Muscle control? Specific moves?
Gumby needs help.
In this context, it is the type of movement associated with that character of climb. You don't use the same body positions, movements, techiques on a slab as you do an overhang.

Then, some routes require (or lend themselves) more efficient or deft usage of the appropriate technique. Delicate, sequential, footwork, body positioning, etc. as opposed to requiring brute force, or just a basic ladder-like series of repeated moves.

The kind of climb where you fall and think "I have not idea how to get through that section" or "that's sequency" as opposed to "that move is really powerful" - that sid powerfull moves can be techical, like the opening sequence of Dracula.

Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 4:02 am
by Tunica Intima
skin flute

Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 4:29 am
by Roentgen Ray
Requiring both technique and a good lead head, I think the Gift at Long Wall ranks as one of the better routes I have done.