Somethin to think about...
Oh snap! The door has been opened!
Let's flip it around: "The rock on either side of that crack can take bolts. It's a route that can (should?) be bolted so that it can stand on it's own without gear."
Think about your original post - you pointed out that a bolted route could be led without clipping the bolts (except, of course for the anchor bolts, I assume. But those don't seem to "count," do they?). It sounds like none of the bolts interfered with the gear placements, so the bolts don't take away from a gear ascent. Typically, bolts don't prevent gear ascents, but pulling (or not placing bolts) makes sport ascents impossible.
(I'm mainly chain-pulling here. Most really good trad routes should be left unbolted. But I do think that there should be a few true crack routes in any given large climbing area that should be bolted so that folks without racks can experience crack/trad movement.)
Really? What gives trad routes supremacy over sport routes?a route that can (should?) stand on its own w/o bolts
Let's flip it around: "The rock on either side of that crack can take bolts. It's a route that can (should?) be bolted so that it can stand on it's own without gear."
Think about your original post - you pointed out that a bolted route could be led without clipping the bolts (except, of course for the anchor bolts, I assume. But those don't seem to "count," do they?). It sounds like none of the bolts interfered with the gear placements, so the bolts don't take away from a gear ascent. Typically, bolts don't prevent gear ascents, but pulling (or not placing bolts) makes sport ascents impossible.
(I'm mainly chain-pulling here. Most really good trad routes should be left unbolted. But I do think that there should be a few true crack routes in any given large climbing area that should be bolted so that folks without racks can experience crack/trad movement.)
Bacon is meat candy.
HUH!?
"But I do think that there should be a few true crack routes in any given large climbing area that should be bolted so that folks without racks can experience crack/trad movement.)"
Thats about the worst thing ive ever heard, its that attitude that is dumbing down climbing. The idea that it should ALWAYS be safe, and easily do able for any one. Bottom line is that ethics are being lost... if a routes nature is that it cannot be protected by natural gear that will hold falls safely, then bolt it.
If there are sections of a sport route that can take gear then it most likely should be a mixed route, although that in most cases it should be left to the discretion of the first ascentionist, except where a VERY obvious crack is present. PURE GEAR LINES SHOULD NEVER EVER EVER BE BOLTED. Im sorry if "someone" w/o a rack cannot experience that movement, but guess what!!!!! they can get gear, get educated and go do it!!!!
Lets all do our part to keep the fucking spirit alive. and not turn this shit into a fucking padded playground.
Think about it.... sex use to be safe and climbing use to be dangerous
I'd like to see those days return... cliffs are crowded and condoms suck
Thats about the worst thing ive ever heard, its that attitude that is dumbing down climbing. The idea that it should ALWAYS be safe, and easily do able for any one. Bottom line is that ethics are being lost... if a routes nature is that it cannot be protected by natural gear that will hold falls safely, then bolt it.
If there are sections of a sport route that can take gear then it most likely should be a mixed route, although that in most cases it should be left to the discretion of the first ascentionist, except where a VERY obvious crack is present. PURE GEAR LINES SHOULD NEVER EVER EVER BE BOLTED. Im sorry if "someone" w/o a rack cannot experience that movement, but guess what!!!!! they can get gear, get educated and go do it!!!!
Lets all do our part to keep the fucking spirit alive. and not turn this shit into a fucking padded playground.
Think about it.... sex use to be safe and climbing use to be dangerous
I'd like to see those days return... cliffs are crowded and condoms suck
Its all about Style....
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- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
I'm sure Fly'n Brian would have been more than capable of leading this climb on lead yet he chose to bolt it.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
Umm.... as opposed to leading it on toprope? What exactly is leading on lead?captain static wrote:I'm sure Fly'n Brian would have been more than capable of leading this climb on lead yet he chose to bolt it.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
Re: HUH!?
Word to that. I'm currently in love with sport climbing, but it does irk me a little when obvious cracks are bolted. Things like "Head and Shoulders", which are maybe 11b with bolts, would be way cooler on gear... and retain a little mystique. There is enough of both to go around... why homogenize the whole deal?Sandman wrote: Thats about the worst thing ive ever heard, its that attitude that is dumbing down climbing. The idea that it should ALWAYS be safe, and easily do able for any one. Bottom line is that ethics are being lost... if a routes nature is that it cannot be protected by natural gear that will hold falls safely, then bolt it.
If there are sections of a sport route that can take gear then it most likely should be a mixed route, although that in most cases it should be left to the discretion of the first ascentionist, except where a VERY obvious crack is present. PURE GEAR LINES SHOULD NEVER EVER EVER BE BOLTED. Im sorry if "someone" w/o a rack cannot experience that movement, but guess what!!!!! they can get gear, get educated and go do it!!!!
Lets all do our part to keep the fucking spirit alive. and not turn this shit into a fucking padded playground.
Think about it.... sex use to be safe and climbing use to be dangerous
I'd like to see those days return... cliffs are crowded and condoms suck
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
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- Posts: 3338
- Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm