The Red versus the New
screw "technique" - that's something for cheese-eating surrender monkeys!
Gimme huge, overhanging moves from jug to jug! woooooo!
But seriously - it's a ~11 hour drive for me to the New vs. ~8 to the Red and the two times I slogged the extra drive I got rained out. Could be that the New is great - I doubt I'll ever know. Oh, and the whole Fayette speed trap thing sucks. The Canadian version of AAA specifically warns members to avoid the area.
Gimme huge, overhanging moves from jug to jug! woooooo!
But seriously - it's a ~11 hour drive for me to the New vs. ~8 to the Red and the two times I slogged the extra drive I got rained out. Could be that the New is great - I doubt I'll ever know. Oh, and the whole Fayette speed trap thing sucks. The Canadian version of AAA specifically warns members to avoid the area.
Bacon is meat candy.
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the lurkist
- Posts: 2240
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm
Just got back from the New. First trip in years.
The cliffs are so tall, the stone so hard, really pretty.
The climbing lends itself to vertical pilates- alot of core tension b/c you are on your feet a lot more. From a physical stand point, a nice compliment to the arm intensive nature of the Red's rowing machines.
Not near as many good hard routes though. A lot of crappy routes done by over zealous bolters in the late eighties. Bunch of bad bolts.
Fayetteville is a cool hang. Has a good local scene.
The cliffs are so tall, the stone so hard, really pretty.
The climbing lends itself to vertical pilates- alot of core tension b/c you are on your feet a lot more. From a physical stand point, a nice compliment to the arm intensive nature of the Red's rowing machines.
Not near as many good hard routes though. A lot of crappy routes done by over zealous bolters in the late eighties. Bunch of bad bolts.
Fayetteville is a cool hang. Has a good local scene.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Normie
I am siding with the red just because I am not counting summersville....but also I think the red has more variety.
Now I do agree with ReachHigh that Seneca is AWESOME!!!!! But on a weekend like this one coming...don't even THINK of having any solitude...plus gumbies will knock shit down on you.
Now I do agree with ReachHigh that Seneca is AWESOME!!!!! But on a weekend like this one coming...don't even THINK of having any solitude...plus gumbies will knock shit down on you.
"The Mountains are my church and climbing is how I worship" - Tommy Caldwell
The trad climbs, river, and paddler bars around the New rock anything in the gorge.
Wanna climb sport, or not get wet when it rains? Hit the Red.
Wanna climb something that makes you actually think, or if you want to plug awesome gear, or paddle, or have any sort of food or night life, or get out of your beta charade comfort zone? Hit the New.
There is a place for both in my life.
Wanna climb sport, or not get wet when it rains? Hit the Red.
Wanna climb something that makes you actually think, or if you want to plug awesome gear, or paddle, or have any sort of food or night life, or get out of your beta charade comfort zone? Hit the New.
There is a place for both in my life.
I love me some New River... but the climbing, sport and trad, is more fun at the Red. New River Trad is mostly face climbing (especially the hard stuff), and there just isn't as much high quality hard sport.
That said, Fayetteville is killin Slade.
And the girls might actually be hotter at the New...
But then theres the rain...
That said, Fayetteville is killin Slade.
And the girls might actually be hotter at the New...
But then theres the rain...
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
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the lurkist
- Posts: 2240
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm
I have to say, while I was there recently we walked a good chunk of Endless. It has a bunch of crappy bolted slabs that I bet don't get down very often. But it has a few all time dick wrenching classic sport routes. Pudds Pretty Dress, Quinsana, Villain's Course, Get thee Behind Me Satan, Harbinger Scarab, Libertine ... to name a few. I mention these because they were put up by Porter or Doug Reed. Basically every thing that one of these two put up that is five star all time classic.
A cool quality of these routes is that they are not overbolted. You can tell that they were put up by guys who were fundamentally trad climbers. Not to dis on the Red (my routes included) but that is a big difference in the way routes are bolted here. Most routes get put up with a bit less adventure in mind.
A cool quality of these routes is that they are not overbolted. You can tell that they were put up by guys who were fundamentally trad climbers. Not to dis on the Red (my routes included) but that is a big difference in the way routes are bolted here. Most routes get put up with a bit less adventure in mind.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Normie