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Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 1:36 pm
by possum2082
danny, i was looking at them a few months ago...it wasn't near 46/cam. i'm not sure where your numbers come from.
i saw that ce/uiaa in pending thing...the co does have some eastern europe credentials on their site.
viamont makes some great gear. rc.com did test 1 krok/gear4rocks cam and it failed at 120% or so.
i think i'll wait for the ce/uiaa thing...they could be lieing (sic) about that...i dont' think there's a way to check ce cert pending status.
if you can...get a full set of aliens from rockempire for $200
Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 2:20 pm
by Saxman
I don't think I would trust cams from a company that doesn't have the budget to do the testing and engineering that Black Diamond and Metolius do.
Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 2:27 pm
by itsclimbtime
Hey thanks for all the great advice guys. I am just getting into trad so I’m still working on building a good rack to learn the ropes with, so this was like a dream being that my funds are kind of tight. Any of you got any ideas for building a low budget rack to learn with in the red?
Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 2:52 pm
by Danny
possum2082 wrote:danny, i was looking at them a few months ago...it wasn't near 46/cam. i'm not sure where your numbers come from.
I was looking at the set of 4 that have the BD double axle design:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Rock-Climbing-2-Axl ... m153.l1262
(150+35) / 4 = 46.25
Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 2:56 pm
by itsclimbtime
<QUOTE> technical information, tests and certification
This gear has been tested at Ukrainian National Scientific-Certification centre "STANDART" in the capital of Ukraine - Kiev city. Every Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) piece must be tested in "STANDART" center to be legally distributed inside Ukraine. As soon as you request, we will scan and email you image of original testing certificate (russian language). Below we provide our translation of such testing certificate to english language to clarify how this gear has been tested and the results of such tests.
For toughness tests we use testing machine ZD-40. Testing methodic we use - static loading till cam will be damaged in any way. We test each size of cam five times and got the maxium load rates shown in the table below. The "strenght" for each cam size mean the maximum load of cam without any damage. For the cam #1 if you load it more that 13 kN then axles of cam will be damaged. For the cam #2, #3, #4 if you load them more that 16 kN then you will damage extending cams. In each case if you overload any cam and damage it, don't use it anymore. Don't try to repai it by yourself also.
As a part of gear4rocks quality control, each device is loaded for the half of its rate, then device working abilities checked again before it leaves factory.
# color size, mm
min/max
(open/close) strenght,
kN long,
mm weight,
kg.
1 red 35/60 13 165 0,175
2 blue 43/72 16 170 0,215
3 brown 52/87 16 185 0,240
4 cyan 105/65 16 215 0,295
Full Set 0,925
Recently gear4rocks initiate a certification procedure for this gear according to CE & UIAA standarts. Although at this moment we are unable to determine how much time all paperwork & testings will take, but as soon as such CE & UIAA testings will be done, and testing certificates will be issued with appropriate safety labels, this event will be properly reflected in gear4rocks auction descriptions & at gear4rocks web site.
Danny I thank this is the testing you are looking at right
Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 3:40 pm
by ahab
not to be superficial or anything, but their logo makes it seem as though they may manufacture crayons as well. that kinda sealed the no deal for me. but hey, if you wanna fall on gear that has been tested at the "STANDART" facility and trust the "strenght" tests and never "try to repai it by yourself also" then you should be golden.
be sure to wear your helmet though...
Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 4:21 pm
by Danny
itsclimbtime wrote:<QUOTE>Danny I thank this is the testing you are looking at right
They say they test each piece at half max which for these is about 6.5 KN which is about 1500 pounds. At least they seem to be testing each piece which CCC (aliens) apparently didn't do.
But what I was talking about is placing the cam in a crack yourself and having your heaviest buddy jump up and down in an aider or sling attached to it after telling him you'll give him $100 dollars if he can break the cam.
Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 1:57 pm
by itsclimbtime
LOl now that is testing at its best
Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 3:43 pm
by MacGyver
I wouldn't buy them. It isn't just about the danger of the gear. I am wiling to pay a bit more for peace of mind. Think of it this way; when you are on the sharp end looking 20 feet down to your last placement, would you rather think about how much money you saved with the cheap cam, or how solid that BD C4 looks.
Posted: Tue May 27, 2008 5:02 pm
by endercore