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Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 2:35 pm
by rhunt
wtok?
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 2:48 pm
by SCIN
Pinching the arete on Mr. Get it on Jones instead of manning up and staying in the crack.
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 3:05 pm
by chriss
Just follow the tape, then you will never be off route....
Meadows wrote:Both huecos on Herd are off.
I used both, I guess I sent a different route. What about the huecos on buddha hole, supafly, tuskan, knee bars on harvest.....
Is going left on twinkie, further off route than the contrived more difficult climbing to the right?
Is going slightly to the left on Buff, further to the left than the pockets are to the right?
What about the 'cheater' rest on golden touch to the left of the last bolt?
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 3:10 pm
by RRO
nasty, you are ghey for even taking the time to type that up. i am about 1000 brain cells short for taking the time to read it.
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 3:41 pm
by Horatio Felacio
get back to building your buttfucking palace.
everyone else: good calls. i have to cheat like that because frankly i'm a weak, crappy climber. just look at me.
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 3:44 pm
by Horatio Felacio
oh yeah, and the jugs between chainsaw and ale 8...you can't use those for both routes...you can only pick one, but the correct choice is chainsaw.
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 3:54 pm
by pru
sport climbing is neither indeed. Retards.
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 3:59 pm
by pigsteak
if you skip the "crux", then that wasn't the crux...duh. down grade the route and move on.
Re: skipping cruxes
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 4:09 pm
by JR
Horatio Felacio wrote:
first off - twinkie - two or three bolts into the steep part there is the obvious redpoint crux where you have to do a few long moves to the right with no feet. apparently you can skip this by going left on gigantic jugs.
The funny part about this "cheat" is that it is actually more direct than going straight right then traversing back on the shelf. I am ashamed that I was a lemming sport climber and followed the chalk.
Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 4:13 pm
by stix
the moves out right on twinkie are the best on the route....when i first got on the route i was getting pumped and fallin off on those moves and tried goin straight up to the rest but it was too chossy to climb on. enough wankers not strong enough for the route plus 6-7 years equals 11c
people skip the redpoint crux on cell block 6 by traversing right on the horizontal to connect to the next horizontal as opposed to going straight up through the 2 finger pocket and edges. their loss, they miss the best moves and the route and i'm sure cell block 3 is a really fun 11d
don't talk to me about contrivances in sport climbing either...