skipping cruxes
Just follow the tape, then you will never be off route....
Is going left on twinkie, further off route than the contrived more difficult climbing to the right?
Is going slightly to the left on Buff, further to the left than the pockets are to the right?
What about the 'cheater' rest on golden touch to the left of the last bolt?
I used both, I guess I sent a different route. What about the huecos on buddha hole, supafly, tuskan, knee bars on harvest.....Meadows wrote:Both huecos on Herd are off.
Is going left on twinkie, further off route than the contrived more difficult climbing to the right?
Is going slightly to the left on Buff, further to the left than the pockets are to the right?
What about the 'cheater' rest on golden touch to the left of the last bolt?
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- Posts: 3338
- Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm
Re: skipping cruxes
The funny part about this "cheat" is that it is actually more direct than going straight right then traversing back on the shelf. I am ashamed that I was a lemming sport climber and followed the chalk.Horatio Felacio wrote: first off - twinkie - two or three bolts into the steep part there is the obvious redpoint crux where you have to do a few long moves to the right with no feet. apparently you can skip this by going left on gigantic jugs.
Last edited by JR on Wed May 14, 2008 4:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
the moves out right on twinkie are the best on the route....when i first got on the route i was getting pumped and fallin off on those moves and tried goin straight up to the rest but it was too chossy to climb on. enough wankers not strong enough for the route plus 6-7 years equals 11c
people skip the redpoint crux on cell block 6 by traversing right on the horizontal to connect to the next horizontal as opposed to going straight up through the 2 finger pocket and edges. their loss, they miss the best moves and the route and i'm sure cell block 3 is a really fun 11d
don't talk to me about contrivances in sport climbing either...
people skip the redpoint crux on cell block 6 by traversing right on the horizontal to connect to the next horizontal as opposed to going straight up through the 2 finger pocket and edges. their loss, they miss the best moves and the route and i'm sure cell block 3 is a really fun 11d
don't talk to me about contrivances in sport climbing either...
"Most men lead lives of quiet desperation." Thoreau