RRC Archives

Well, I'm a jer so don't listen to anything I have to say but if you insist on putting yourself in the running for a Darwin- all the pro is hands up-I used 1, 2, 3, c4's and the two largest hexes. I had to do the gumby two pitch variation since I didn't have enough gear to do it in one. If your rack is really lacking, there are other good climbs that take less gear. RA is not cheap to protect unless your using hexes and chockstones and in that case don't forget your painter pants. Whatever you do, learn to place that shit from someone who knows whats up before you end up way runout with pro thats too small and pieces zippering out from beneath you, I don't want to find your soiled undies tossed in the woods now...

I'll chime in with what I use but be forewarned, I'm generally comfortable at that grade and am comfortable with running it out on certain sizes/terrain. I think I've led that route a total of 7 or 8 times so far.

1 #.75 Camalot, 1 #1 Camalot, 2 #2 Camalots, #11 BD Hex, and a couple of runners to slings trees with. And of course runners to extend my pieces. And a helmet (always on trad).


A friend of mine led it for her first time (had TR'd before) recently and while she's not that comfy with running things out, nor is totally comfortable at that grade she took up 2 #.75 Camalots, 2 #1 Camalots, 3 #2 Camalots, 1 #3 Camalot, 1 #11 Hex, and runners and she did just fine (and had a piece leftover, too). That was a week after returning from Indian Creek where she refined her jamming, however.

Don't take this in the "snippy" way: If you have to ask this question, then you will really benefit from a day with a guide like RRO! It isn't exactly cheap, but a day of hands on work with a good guide will teach you a lot of critical info for getting into trad. Even if you don't lead, following/cleaning after a good leader on a few climbs will really help.

Rack of quickdraws. I'm bolting it next week.

512OW wrote:Rack of quickdraws. I'm bolting it next week.

finally, its about time

RA is mostly hand size so a bunch of those and a few bigger and smaller. The handjams are sweet. That's why it's a classic.

Kige do you have an aversion to Sport routes?

No one really buys a bare bones starter rack to do one route. That would be kinda frivalous and you posted that money was an issue.

Wait a minute I just responded to a Troll. Shit. You got me.

Why is "Troll" capitalized?

Just go with someone experienced. Period. And not just for a day with a guide and then think you can lead trad. You need a bunch of time with an experienced trad climber, espesually more than a day or weekend. Taking OWs qoute a little differently might help you understand. Sticking cams up your butt doesn't make you a trad climber. Lots of practice with an experienced trad partner might though.

I agree with most peoples posts so far....I, myself have never climbed RA but I know the feeling of wanting to do a certain route and tailoring a rack to fit that route...but trust me its better to have an all around rack. If you are JUST starting climbing in general, I would reccomend sport climbing or bouldering (not that the red has much bouldering) but this is a cheaper way and really "safer" way of getting into climbing. Also classes are invalubale (but also expensive) and you may find that your money will go farther by hiring a guide. In the end the choice is yours, but people on here just dont want you to get hurt thats why all these other suggestions.