Taking lessons on how to connect with your audience from Ray, JR?JR wrote:Do you have trouble doing crosses? I know I do.
Tissue Tiger Beta, please
This is disturbing to me. There is an absolutely balanced position to be in throughout the entirety of the move. Put your foot there. If its a pocket, fine. If its a ledge, fine. If its a smear, fine. Look for balance, not footholds.whilojo wrote: Also Wes, I couldn't tell from your last post--was it the pocket or ledge that was the better "chick" beta for the beginning of the crux? I'm using the pocket, but it really works for me. Maybe I'm not a "chick" after all?
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
Is this from the Caddyshack school of climbing???? Ty Webb style.512OW wrote:. There is an absolutely balanced position to be in throughout the entirety of the move. Put your foot there. If its a pocket, fine. If its a ledge, fine. If its a smear, fine. Look for balance, not footholds.
Ty wrote: There's a force in the universe that makes things happen. And all you have to do is get in touch with it, stop thinking, let things happen, and be the ball.
Wanananannananna be the ball. Waananananannanana be the balance.
Fine Yasmeenee. I will try the opposite.Yasmeen wrote:Taking lessons on how to connect with your audience from Ray, JR?JR wrote:Do you have trouble doing crosses? I know I do.
It puts its left hand on the crimp. It puts its right foot in the pocket. Then it crosses into the India hold with its right hand.
Better????
why is everyone crossing to india?
I am 5'3 and I go from the two pockets to the crimp out left (match on the crimp,left hand first, then right) then, step up with your right foot and India will be up to the right. Just grab the right side of India with your right hand and then the big left hand jug after that.
I am 5'3 and I go from the two pockets to the crimp out left (match on the crimp,left hand first, then right) then, step up with your right foot and India will be up to the right. Just grab the right side of India with your right hand and then the big left hand jug after that.
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.
Totally, and I'm only 5'7" ona good day. you can waste a lot of time and atp by using all the holds on the way up. Taking a run to figure out how to make fewer, longer moves will get you up to the crux more quickly.RTimm wrote:I am 5'10" so I will not be any help with the crux (let alone remembering the sequence on a route that I have not done in years), but I can help with possibly getting you some added energy going into the crux. I climbed the route a couple times, making more, smaller moves through the beginning and middle, thus tiring myself prior to the crux. I watched a better climber do it and he made slightly longer, fewer moves which I tried and made all the difference.