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Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 6:42 pm
by Myke Dronez
It just ensures that the hangers are optimally oriented when they are loaded- I gladly clip those spinners, hell, theres two of em'!
Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 7:04 pm
by Josephine
possum2082 wrote:the crazy part is this: a trad girl offered to set up a top rope for us. she came down and gave us crazy quanitities of beta...yet didn't mention that the top bolts were loose!
wow - i'm a "trad girl"
not sure how that happened!!!! i think someone must have switched the labels when i wasn't looking! also funny to think that i could have "crazy quantities of beta" when i can't even remember how to get off the ground 90% of the time! must have been referring to my tips and tricks of how to cheat to the top to get your gear back. now THAT i've gotten pretty good at!
yes the hangers were loose. yes i realized it when i got up there. i apologize. i failed at my attempt in good citizenship by not alerting you to the grevious danger that lay in wait for you. if i had been a Good Tradie, i would have sent up for my partner's adjustable wrench and tried to tighten the bolts. perhaps they might have budged a little and secured the threatening hangers. but, alas, i am just a mere mortal that set up a TR for some neat people i met at the crag. hope you had fun on it. good to know you got your gear back. and glad you didn't die.
welcome to climbing at the red.
PS - you can always report bad bolts at
www.teamsuckclimbing.com - but only after you donate $ to their beer fund.
Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 7:04 pm
by 512OW
possum2082 wrote:the crazy part is this: a trad girl offered to set up a top rope for us. she came down and gave us crazy quanitities of beta...yet didn't mention that the top bolts were loose!
A "trad" girl??
bolts were loose??
Was it the hangers or the bolts?
Regardless, you should have just carried a crashpad and done "When Doves Cry". No loose bolts on that.
If you insist on a rack, Hidden Dragon is way more fun than the rest of the crag. You only need stoppers.
Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 11:01 pm
by Josephine
512OW wrote:possum2082 wrote:the crazy part is this: a trad girl offered to set up a top rope for us. she came down and gave us crazy quanitities of beta...yet didn't mention that the top bolts were loose!
A "trad" girl??
bolts were loose??
Was it the hangers or the bolts?
Regardless, you should have just carried a crashpad and done "When Doves Cry". No loose bolts on that.
If you insist on a rack, Hidden Dragon is way more fun than the rest of the crag. You only need stoppers.
i know - isn't it a funny description of lil ol' me?!
hangers were loose not bolts.
i agree no bolts on when doves cry - obviously i wasted a trip cuz i didn't get on it.
but i call bullshit on your assessment of hidden dragon. you need more than stoppers. you also need abs of steel and some big ass cams. I know cuz i watched the video - and that means i know everything.
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fusea ... 2014395621
but maybe you've forgotten the route now that you've started clipping bolts
Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 11:13 pm
by 512OW
Oh, I forgot to mention. I bolted it last week.
Next week, I'm bolting "When Doves Cry". It'll have 79 bolts, otherwise there will be groundfall potential at every bolt.
Congrats Josie... you're a "trad" girl!!
Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 11:48 am
by possum2082
yeah...i meant hanger. it's just that, you know, coloquially
"bolt +hanger=bolt."
i call anyone that actually knows how to use more than a gri gri and a quickdraw a trad guy/girl!
also, thank you for setting up the top rope...we all had a blast and made fools of ourselves trying to climb up a crack
Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 5:25 pm
by Maxwell
we had the same situation with someone doing us the favor of setting a top on bitchmobile saturday night, i didn't even notice them shits when i cleaned my draws off. i hope this won't discourage other trad climbers, but i don't know how it couldn't. personally, i just asked for a top rope not an inspection. it was an awesome climb by the way.
thanks
max
Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 5:47 pm
by Myke Dronez
It might discourage other sports climbers.