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Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 6:42 pm
by Myke Dronez
It just ensures that the hangers are optimally oriented when they are loaded- I gladly clip those spinners, hell, theres two of em'! :)

Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 7:04 pm
by Josephine
possum2082 wrote:the crazy part is this: a trad girl offered to set up a top rope for us. she came down and gave us crazy quanitities of beta...yet didn't mention that the top bolts were loose!
wow - i'm a "trad girl" :D not sure how that happened!!!! i think someone must have switched the labels when i wasn't looking! also funny to think that i could have "crazy quantities of beta" when i can't even remember how to get off the ground 90% of the time! must have been referring to my tips and tricks of how to cheat to the top to get your gear back. now THAT i've gotten pretty good at! :wink:

yes the hangers were loose. yes i realized it when i got up there. i apologize. i failed at my attempt in good citizenship by not alerting you to the grevious danger that lay in wait for you. if i had been a Good Tradie, i would have sent up for my partner's adjustable wrench and tried to tighten the bolts. perhaps they might have budged a little and secured the threatening hangers. but, alas, i am just a mere mortal that set up a TR for some neat people i met at the crag. hope you had fun on it. good to know you got your gear back. and glad you didn't die. :D

welcome to climbing at the red.

PS - you can always report bad bolts at www.teamsuckclimbing.com - but only after you donate $ to their beer fund. :D

Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 7:04 pm
by 512OW
possum2082 wrote:the crazy part is this: a trad girl offered to set up a top rope for us. she came down and gave us crazy quanitities of beta...yet didn't mention that the top bolts were loose!

A "trad" girl??

bolts were loose??

Was it the hangers or the bolts?

Regardless, you should have just carried a crashpad and done "When Doves Cry". No loose bolts on that.

If you insist on a rack, Hidden Dragon is way more fun than the rest of the crag. You only need stoppers.

Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 11:01 pm
by Josephine
512OW wrote:
possum2082 wrote:the crazy part is this: a trad girl offered to set up a top rope for us. she came down and gave us crazy quanitities of beta...yet didn't mention that the top bolts were loose!

A "trad" girl??

bolts were loose??

Was it the hangers or the bolts?

Regardless, you should have just carried a crashpad and done "When Doves Cry". No loose bolts on that.

If you insist on a rack, Hidden Dragon is way more fun than the rest of the crag. You only need stoppers.
i know - isn't it a funny description of lil ol' me?!

hangers were loose not bolts.

i agree no bolts on when doves cry - obviously i wasted a trip cuz i didn't get on it.

but i call bullshit on your assessment of hidden dragon. you need more than stoppers. you also need abs of steel and some big ass cams. I know cuz i watched the video - and that means i know everything.

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fusea ... 2014395621

but maybe you've forgotten the route now that you've started clipping bolts :D

Posted: Mon May 12, 2008 11:13 pm
by 512OW
Oh, I forgot to mention. I bolted it last week.

Next week, I'm bolting "When Doves Cry". It'll have 79 bolts, otherwise there will be groundfall potential at every bolt.

Congrats Josie... you're a "trad" girl!!

Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 11:48 am
by possum2082
yeah...i meant hanger. it's just that, you know, coloquially
"bolt +hanger=bolt."

i call anyone that actually knows how to use more than a gri gri and a quickdraw a trad guy/girl!

also, thank you for setting up the top rope...we all had a blast and made fools of ourselves trying to climb up a crack ;)

Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 5:25 pm
by Maxwell
we had the same situation with someone doing us the favor of setting a top on bitchmobile saturday night, i didn't even notice them shits when i cleaned my draws off. i hope this won't discourage other trad climbers, but i don't know how it couldn't. personally, i just asked for a top rope not an inspection. it was an awesome climb by the way.
thanks
max

Posted: Wed May 28, 2008 5:47 pm
by Myke Dronez
It might discourage other sports climbers.