RRC Archives

I've found (at least at the gym) that I need to do 3 or 4 routes 1-2 number grades below my limit if I want to climb hard and recover between climbs.

Occasionally I will bring a grip trainer (the BD dough nut) and use it a bit on the approach. It get blood moving and seems to help delay the pump. Though depending on how hard you climb it may not be much of a warm up.

Start on the ride down, stretching forearms, making fists (expand retract fingers). Do this on the hike up as well if your hands are free. Do stuff to get teh blood flowing, try to get a little pump but back off before a full on pump-out.

The more you can do before you actually start climbing, the less warmup runs you'll have to do before getting on your project.

My best sends have been without warm-ups other than the hike in. You are more injury prone but can crank a little more intense and powerful the first go around. Even a warm-up will start the lactic acid build up. Not that lactic acid is bad but it's best to be absent than have a little built up. Kind of like that first pee of a bar night, once you open the flow it's all over. Mild stretching is good.

my two old and crusty cents...

Be sure to warm up on routes of similar style as the project you are working on. If the only warm up at a very overhanging cliff is the near by mossy slab, you are better off warming up on your project.

My experience was that I always climbed harder/better after doing at least three good warm-ups.

Once you reach a certain fitness level and have good recovery endurance, you can get wicked pumped and after a 30/45 minute rest you should be ready to pull hard again...at least one more time.

Many people are in the habit of chillin/sleeping/what ever and or just belaying while resting in between burns/warm ups. Get up and walk around a bit, movement will help purge the lactic acid.

Josephine wrote: seriously, i've heard a good warm up is to put your hands over your head - straight arms. then open/close your hands (squeeze when closing). do this 100 times. shake out. repeat 2 more times. i know it sounds ridiculously easy but i get tired after about 60 and i have to wait a long time before i can repeat. then again - i'm not in great climbing shape either.

who in the fuck told you this? and...do you do this? if so, please videotape and post on youtube! 8)

someone who was on the US climbing team told me this was her warm up.

i don't climb competatively and i don't climb at that level - but i do know when i actually did this exercise it made a difference in my climbing. i may look like a dork but, as Buster said, when don't i?

Josephine wrote:sometimes i climb something easier than my project - but usually that's not an option bec i'm projecting the warmups

me too.

I would warm up on something 1-2 number grades easier, but I don't know if there's anything that easy at the gym. I fail.

andrew did defy 376 times this winter?? well i did it 377 times...in a day...andrew needs to sack up!