Ratings

Post by **Spoonman** » Fri Feb 21, 2003 1:04 am

Yoda is not dissin' "Mercy", in fact it is his/hers/its favorite route. He/she/it does laps on it for warm-ups, even residing in another state or universe.

Everytime you generalize you will be able to find exceptions to the generalization. (Finnie's Law #23 -which is, of course, just another generalization.)

Most moves on 5.12's are 10+ moves at the Red, same with 11's. Some 13's are mostly jug hauls too, but have significant cruxes.

"Table" (the 13a version) is inconsequental climbing to V6/V7 then about 12a.

What used to be "Revival", was a lot of 10+ moves that eventually felt like 12a, to a burly 4 move V7, or maybe V6 the way I did it.

"Phantasia" would appear to be an endurance route, but is not at all. 5.11 slab, to near perfect rest, two bolts inconsequental climbing to a sloppy body tension eight move V6, then jugs.

If you break "Convicted" into three or four sections, they would all be about easy 5.12 (V4).

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Fri Feb 21, 2003 3:59 am

hey yoda, did you think heart shaped box was .10 d? it looked kinda hard when you were on it with all of the falling and everything. call me crazy, but i thought you would be able to do .10 d moves bolt to bolt. anyway, that thing is like 3rd class moves if you break it down to the right scale. i think yoda needs to go back to jedi school.

Post by **CPower** » Fri Feb 21, 2003 4:49 am

This is funny shit. I think anything climbed without a rope is 3rd class, so if Yoda
feels comfortable without a rope on 10d(which he should since the grade seems pretty inconsciquential to him)and no route in the Red is harder than that...
Start soloing and let's see how much shit you downrate then, my guess is Yoda
loves the comfort of big, fat shiney new bolts.

Post by **Joe Finney** » Fri Feb 21, 2003 5:13 am

Im not generalizing all climbs just most of the 12's in the RED. Look at what "Spoonman said" most 12's in the red are 10+ moves. Do you agree? But ya I understand 13's. They have mostly 11.d moves in them with a v6-7 crux. You figure it out! oh Horatio, I had a bad day that day. I was being distracted by your Big head and the drool coming out of your mouth. You need to wipe that shit off your lip sometime, boy

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Fri Feb 21, 2003 6:49 am

no way! that's how i scare other people away from the crag i'm at.

Post by **Johnny** » Mon Feb 24, 2003 2:03 pm

So what exactly is a 10+ move? A bunch of 5.6 endurance moves strung together?

Post by **Joe Finney** » Mon Mar 10, 2003 7:44 pm

you are absolutley right johnny. maybe a little harder than .6 something like .9 with a little pump.

Post by **Eric** » Mon Mar 10, 2003 8:56 pm

so then, generally speaking, every move is really just a variation of another easier move? For instance a 5.11 move is really just a bunch of 5.6 moves put together?

Wow, really then there shouldn't be any route that I can't do!!! I guess it all depends on how you look at things.

Post by **Joe Finney** » Tue Mar 11, 2003 12:01 am

no 5.11 moves are generally 5.9+ or .10 moves. but ya your right again, you should be able to do every route, its just that damn pump!! Right

Post by **merrick** » Sun Jun 02, 2024 5:50 am

all i know is that there was this boulder problem i got on today and i couldn't even generate enough tension to do the first move. it was like 300 5.6 moves at the same time. and of course 5.6 moves are just hard 3rd class moves but all at the same time. so i guess if i were to rate it i would say this boulder problem i was on today was 3 to the 1000th class. and that is pretty hard...i think...unless you do it really slow...or something....

i think i am just going to go do more climbing and stop worrying about these ratings.