Lateralus,
Good climbing, but how did you do with the road noise? I didn't like climbing there at all. If they could just transport it to some of the other Utah Hills areas.
But Wes, if you're out that way...go to Veyo Pool - there is this really great bolted line - it's in a sort of climbing park that I believe doesn't allow just plain old trad climbing, you could supplement the climb with gear like Yas did - but it's a wicked crack climb to a roof you have to pop over to finish. I can't get on it, but it's a blast to watch someone climb....
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... ic_id=1597
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... ic_id=1596
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... ic_id=1595
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... ic_id=1594
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... ic_id=1593
That's the run at the top at the little roofy part...but you can see the crack at the top.
Trad style sport climbs?
Lateralus wrote:Wes you'd love the VRG, pretty much every climb there has trad moves on them. Some they are required. the most interesting climbing I've found yet
What routes would you suggest at the VRG then? cause when I spent a month there, everything I got on had small crimps and pockets (other than Mentor, that thing is a jug hual). That limestone dosent yeild itself to mcuh trad technique at all.
spuzo,
never bothered me, the climbing was too good I guess. I wouldn't make a habit of climbing in places like that but since I was used to mountain limestone usually in deserted areas with no one around the VRG with its industrial nature was amusing to me.
Allah, pretty much every climb I got on had jamming on it, not saying it was all jamming or even close, but I distinctly remember doing it on a lot of the routes I got on. Sometimes it was just a horizontal that would be better jammed than held like Mentor, or pockets that could be jammed instead of normal pulling. Fall of Man, High Flames Drifter, Bowzer?, most of the warm ups both below and above the Blasphemy wall, mentor(several of them on that but I guess that doesn't count because it's a jug haul? ;/),brutus, Forever Man. I didn't get on anything harder than .13b so I'm not sure about the routes above that grade. I just felt like most every climb required an open mind to use any kind of technique or trick possible, some of which included hand jams or finger locks. I'm also not trying to imply I'm some kind of VRG master as I got my ass kicked on most everything there pretty severly.
never bothered me, the climbing was too good I guess. I wouldn't make a habit of climbing in places like that but since I was used to mountain limestone usually in deserted areas with no one around the VRG with its industrial nature was amusing to me.
Allah, pretty much every climb I got on had jamming on it, not saying it was all jamming or even close, but I distinctly remember doing it on a lot of the routes I got on. Sometimes it was just a horizontal that would be better jammed than held like Mentor, or pockets that could be jammed instead of normal pulling. Fall of Man, High Flames Drifter, Bowzer?, most of the warm ups both below and above the Blasphemy wall, mentor(several of them on that but I guess that doesn't count because it's a jug haul? ;/),brutus, Forever Man. I didn't get on anything harder than .13b so I'm not sure about the routes above that grade. I just felt like most every climb required an open mind to use any kind of technique or trick possible, some of which included hand jams or finger locks. I'm also not trying to imply I'm some kind of VRG master as I got my ass kicked on most everything there pretty severly.
"Good things take time, impossible things take a little longer"
Percy Gerutty
Percy Gerutty